tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post8261970553871823115..comments2024-01-25T05:41:38.085-08:00Comments on happilycaffeinated: In Progress (part 1): Simplicity 1254 - Leanne Marshall coatMichellehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-26702438440104125422014-12-04T11:15:19.284-08:002014-12-04T11:15:19.284-08:00If you look at the finished garment measurements, ...If you look at the finished garment measurements, there's 3.5" of ease drafted into the bust. I suspect that this number is fairly accurate. I know that coats are supposed to have at least 5" of ease through the bust, so yeah, you might need to add more above your usual FBA. What I did, to spread things out a bit, was do a 3" FBA (for 6" of ease) and then a 1" broad back adjustment (I typically need BBA in wovens, and the resulting shoulder dart helps with fit), and then cut larger "just in case" seam allowances on my muslin. From pin-fitting the CF, I think it's going to work just fine, but we'll see if there's any pulling once I get the second half of the zipper installed.Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-37953545924131499592014-12-04T11:02:52.626-08:002014-12-04T11:02:52.626-08:00I re-sewed the sleeve seams with a 1/4" seam ...I re-sewed the sleeve seams with a 1/4" seam allowance last night, and the extra ~1" that gave me helped quite a bit. I may still opt to do a slash-and-spread full bicep adjustment on them, but I'll determine that once I actually get the sleeves set into the shell.Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-265962386760701382014-12-04T11:01:14.974-08:002014-12-04T11:01:14.974-08:00I haven't found separating zippers to be any m...I haven't found separating zippers to be any more difficult than regular zippers. You just need to make sure that everything lines up so that one side of your hem doesn't end up looking shorter than the other side.Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-16471036397778932652014-12-04T06:21:10.690-08:002014-12-04T06:21:10.690-08:00All very interesting! The pattern is on backorder ...All very interesting! The pattern is on backorder but is meant to be shipped soon so I'm looking forward to getting mine :) I think it's going to need a hefty FBA for me unless there's a lot of ease in the chest, but luckily I've done them before. (Understatement Of The Year)Jennyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00785777030789892475noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-57006465806034715282014-12-03T18:16:21.670-08:002014-12-03T18:16:21.670-08:00I have always said that sewing in the sleeve is ne...I have always said that sewing in the sleeve is needed on a bodice. As you said, you can't get a complete idea of the fit without seeing how the sleeves affect the bodice. <br /><br />I am surprised that this coat has such narrow sleeves. Thanks for sharing your preliminary results.Lhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/18384050927297629715noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-15147588294675082962014-12-03T14:36:37.869-08:002014-12-03T14:36:37.869-08:00Thanks so much for sharing your observations. I to...Thanks so much for sharing your observations. I too plan on making this coat and hope it comes together nicely. I have never done a seperating zipper before- so this is way out of my comfort zone. I also have large biceps so will definitely be adjusting that area also.Angiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16653700178942627323noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-75064969905832388152014-12-03T14:10:03.217-08:002014-12-03T14:10:03.217-08:00I wouldn't normally have muslined a zipper (I ...I wouldn't normally have muslined a zipper (I usually just pin the CF closed), but hearing about the zipper on this pattern made me change my mind. I figured that if I worked through it on my own first, I'd be able to figure out how to change it to get it the way I wanted in my "real" version.Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-22956246452646491712014-12-03T13:42:48.791-08:002014-12-03T13:42:48.791-08:00Really looking forward to seeing the completed jac...Really looking forward to seeing the completed jacket.BeaJayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14071033898844018967noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-26489995822469096322014-12-03T12:46:11.755-08:002014-12-03T12:46:11.755-08:00Thanks, Michelle. This is really helpful! Going ov...Thanks, Michelle. This is really helpful! Going over the instructions I was not impressed by the zipper insertion but that can be changed. Your observation about the fit comes as a surprise. Call me naive but I'm never prepared for patterns that don't resemble the line drawings. I should know better ;)Mariannehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/05144010556887549717noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-49996199308758202892014-12-03T12:34:26.397-08:002014-12-03T12:34:26.397-08:00The hips really don't look bad, and I suspect ...The hips really don't look bad, and I suspect that taking them in a touch will change the shape to be more like the photo. I did want to mention it, though, because I suspect that pear-shapes who usually go up a size or two at the hips will likely be able to get away without doing so on this coat.Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-41697843718368710842014-12-03T12:33:11.234-08:002014-12-03T12:33:11.234-08:00Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing your coa...Thanks! I'm looking forward to seeing your coat, as well.Michellehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12940774293224434567noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-38648858429566612222014-12-03T12:24:55.510-08:002014-12-03T12:24:55.510-08:00Thank you for your notes & observations. I pla...Thank you for your notes & observations. I plan on making this coat since I love it as well!<br />Good that you mentioned that there are no seperate facing pieces for the zipper. I had the same 'issue' with the last coat I made and I find it quite frustrating to get it zipped up. So I will be drafting my own facings.<br />Also thank you for mentioning the shape in your muslin. I find it very annoying when line drawings differ so much from the actual finished garment. It's good to know that there is a lot more ease in the hips for picking a size.<br />Reading your blogpost I'm quite sure I'll be making a muslin as well!Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3872782147494855823.post-47456756367973301502014-12-03T11:46:42.897-08:002014-12-03T11:46:42.897-08:00Hey Michelle,
I just finished muslining this patte...Hey Michelle,<br />I just finished muslining this pattern too and my adjustments are almost identical to yours, I didn't think to sew up the hood though. Good Luck! I cannot wait to see your coat.<br />~RenaeRenaehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/16774813503471281011noreply@blogger.com