Friday, January 16, 2015

This Week in Patterns (16-Jan-2015)

Oh boy, so this week, Burda released one of the worst Plus collections I've ever seen. It's really, really awful. It's rare that a pattern collection actually makes me angry, but this one does. Let's take a look, shall we?

BurdaStyle Plus - January 2015

If you were to Google "passive aggressive fat shaming", I truly believe that the landing page for this collection should be one of the top hits:

Loft Life Collection (January 2015)

There's a whole lot of fugliness and unflattering sacks going on here.

Loose-Fitting Elasticized Athletic Jacket (01/2015 #134)

If you've ever wanted to wear an oversized, shapeless, silver sack jacket #134 is your pattern. For those who weren't following Burda back in the Burda World of Fashion (Burda WOF) days, looks like these are partially how Burda got the nickname "Burda WTF?"

BurdaStyle 01/2015 #134
Pleated Trousers with Hip Yoke (01/2015 #130)

Next up is a pair of trousers apparently so unflattering on the model that BurdaStyle used not one, but two different photos that completely obscure the supposed selling point (design-wise) of the pattern--the hip yoke and pleats.

BurdaStyle 01/2015 #130B

BurdaStyle 01/2015 #130A
Batwing Jersey Shirt #132

I have a hard time deciding what's less flattering here: the shirt itself or the fact that the Burda stylist decided to tuck an oversized, bulky shirt into a pleated skirt. This is just awful.

BurdaStyle 01/2015 #132
Mid-calf length Maxi Coat 01/2015 #131

Hey, at least the coat is nice.

BurdaStyle 01/2015 #131

HotPatterns 1185 Three-Piece-Sweet Jacket, Scarf, and Tank


Thankfully, we finish the week by cleansing our brains from that awful (and IMO, insulting) Burda collection with a set of fun layering pieces from HotPatterns:

HotPatterns 1185 Three-Piece-Sweet Jacket, Scarf, and Tank set

HotPatterns Three-Piece-Sweet Jacket, Tank, & Scarf
If you've seen how I dress in real life, then you know that I frequently dress in layers, and this pattern/set is right up my alley. I feel like HotPatterns designs are at their best when Trudy takes a current trend and builds an everyday-wearable garment around it. I like the split back on the jacket--a nod to the current huge cutout trend, but when paired with the tank, it's completely work-appropriate for the office. I also love that there's an option to line (or not line) the jacket.

Now, I live in a moderate climate in the PNW, so I have plenty of opportunity to wear unlined jackets, but one of my biggest pet peeves with patterns is when a recommended fabric for a jacket (or dress or skirt) is something like "wool tweed" or "wool crepe" that you'd always line, and then the pattern doesn't include lining pieces or instructions (I'm looking at you Colette Dahlia).

In any case, this pattern is an excuse to go fabric shopping for 2-3 coordinated fabrics. That's never a bad thing, is it?

Coat update

I feel like I'm so, so, close to finishing my coat. I've got the whole body constructed now. The fit is good, the shape is flattering, and it's looking very, very wearable (albeit a bit warm). I've started on construction of the hood. I'm kind of amused because the hood construction takes an entire page of pattern instructions, whereas they had you completely construct and start to bag the lining in a single step. I'm hoping that this last bit goes fast and then I can finally move on to another project. At the very least, I'll take a few progress photos outside on my dressform this weekend.

Final Thoughts

Hate the Burda, love the HotPatterns. Vogue sent out an email recently teasing their Early Spring collection, so hopefully, we'll have those to take a look at next week!


23 comments:

  1. There is no excuse for that jacket. When it looks awful on your totally-not-a-plus-size model, what are the rest of us supposed to look like in it? I love how the Burda description says that the "elasticated low-waisted band, elasticated cuffs and a drawstring hem gather in the generous silhouette and define the figure." Not even a little bit, Burda! I've never sewn a Hot Pattern, but I like the idea of that split-back jacket.

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    1. On the other hand, the Burda jacket is perfect for days when one really needs a super-large, cinchable sack. For smuggling secret hams and other ill-gotten bootie.

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    2. A tribute to Burda from Barry Manilow:
      Oh, Burda, well you came and you gave me a schmatte
      So I sent you away, Oh, Burda.
      But now I want to steal produce, so I need jacket too huge,
      Oh, Burda.

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    3. And now I'm hearing this in my head, sung in Homer Simpson's voice (ala his "Mindy").

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    4. Just curious-- is the top in the 2 pics of the pants also part of the pattern set? 'Cause that is just unflattering. Burda seems to be in a volume moment, which can pass now.

      I don't remember Homer singing "Mindy." I do remember a character on one of the CSIs singing a version of "Mandy."

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    5. Yup, that top is, indeed part of the collection (I didn't call it out because it's just sort of a nothing shapeless top and there were too many other horrors to call out here). As for Homer, ask youtube, and ye shall receive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IuoU_RnIGi0

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  2. Yep. Definitely an "oh Burda..." moment with that jacket. I hate when plus goes all shapeless sack. Like seriously!?! Shapeless sack is the exact opposite of what is needed! DEFINE THE BODY! arrgggh!

    That HP pattern is really, really cute!

    Burda envelope patterns should be coming out really soon too. I saw promise of a asymmetrical zip moto jacket and I needs some of that.

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    1. I'll keep my eye out for those. I tend to not follow Burda envelope pattern releases online because I haven't found any site with large enough images to really see the pattern details. Simplicity's are okay, I guess, but man, that site is slow...

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  3. I'm with you - those Burdas hurt my eyes. It's first thing in the morning here and eyes are still too blurry to make out the details on the HP one. Vogue has a sale on at the moment - no doubt to free up space for new.

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    1. I'm hoping the same and that we'll see the new patterns when the sale ends.

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  4. None of those for me thanks. On the Burda note and as someone who lives on the size gap I really wish they would just do one line with an expanded size range and let women everywhere decide how they would like to dress.

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    1. Completely agree. I remember being on the size gap and feeling annoyed at some of the cute designs that would stop at a size 42.

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  5. Somebody all the fashion police and arrest that designer for those Burda designs!

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    1. Right? It reminds me of the way that some Project Runway contestants react during the "Real Woman" challenges.

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  6. Yeah, those BWTFs (heh) are amazingly awful, even for Burda Plus.

    Speaking of new patterns ... have you seen the Thread Theory Camas Blouse. Not a big size range for non-skinnies, unfortunately, but I do kinda like it.

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    1. That's very pretty--I like the neckline. I missed that one because I don't really follow Thread Theory (their men's sizing doesn't go anywhere near what I'd need for my big-and-tall husband).

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  7. Oh wow. My headache just got worse after looking at that collection. When will folks learn that curves are to be appreciated and not hidden? That is some major wtf-ery going on there.

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    1. It's just an awful collection all-around. The silver jacket is the worse, but you can't ignore that the pants must be so unflattering that they didn't show the details in EITHER photo that they have for them.

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  8. Yikes, those Burda Plus patterns are pretty awful (except for the coat, which is classic but kinda boring).

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    1. Agreed. Although they rarely do Plus sized coats, so I guess just the fact that they did this one is notable.

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  9. Even Burda's site is getting almost 100% negative reaction to these new plus patterns.

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  10. Even Burda's site is getting almost 100% negative reaction to these new plus patterns.

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