This Week in Patterns (9-Jan-2015)

I have a little bit of catch-up to do in this week's post. I skipped posting last week because I opted not to post last week, given the craziness of the holidays and wanting to spend my valuable free time sewing rather than blogging. BUT, I am including last week's new release (the StyleArc January release) in this post, in the interest of comprehensively covering what's been new since the 1st of the new year.

StyleArc - January Release

StyleArc released five new patterns at the beginning of this month, all of which look like they could have come from the same runway collection.

Fern Woven Top

This month's set freebie, the Fern Woven top features an on-trend asymmetrical crossover front. This one is cute...for someone else. There's nothing about this top that I feel would be a good idea on my own figure.

StyleArc Fern Woven top

Brooke Woven Skirt

I think that the Brooke Woven skirt is really cute. I also think that it's pretty similar to one of the views of the Tenterhook Snapdragon skirt, which I already own. 

StyleArc Brooke Skirt

Melinda Knit Tunic

The Melinda is cute enough and with its splicing, provides some options for design creativity. On the other hand, it's nothing earth-shattering. I'm kind of surprised that this wasn't the freebie for the month, given that StyleArc's freebies tend to usually be basics-with-a-twist that most women can comfortably wear.

StyleArc Melinda Tunic

Rita Ponte Skirt

And the Rita is a ponte pencil skirt with an elastic waist. I'm not sure how this differs from StyleArc's own Fay skirt, but it looks like just a slight difference in hem? Boy I sound crotchety here, but I'll openly admit that I'm pretty underwhelmed with this month's release from StyleArc.

Rita Ponte Skirt

Lani Woven Tunic

Okay, here's the one pattern that I actually like and think is interesting out of the group. The design lines are interesting and unlike some of the other patterns this release, it looks like the crossover happens at a safe enough point to not have to worry about flashing people. I would wear this--probably making it up in a solid color and doing contrast top-stitching.

StyleArc Lani tunic

 This month, in addition to offering the Fern Woven top free with every order, they're also allowing you to Buy 2, Get 1 Free, out of the January styles. Unfortunately for me (I guess?), but fortunately for my wallet, none of them really grab me or are my style. So, no, I'm not even tempted to take advantage of the special offer this month.

Colette Patterns - Seamwork Issue 2

Colette Patterns released Issue 02 of their new Seamwork magazine. This issue includes articles about hemstitching, working with bias drape, and working with doubleknits. There's also a guest column by Melissa Fehr (Fehr trade), one of my favorite sewing bloggers, about activewear fabrics. (Melissa's article is both interesting and well-written, BTW.)

I was uninspired by the basic cardigan and bag patterns for the first issue, but I think that the two included patterns (for subscribers) in Issue 02 are a little more promising--there's a leggings pattern and a pretty camisole. Neither of these will get me to subscribe, myself (I'm already quite happy with my Cake Espresso pattern for leggings), but at least they're more interesting than a clutch or a tote bag.

Colette Manila leggings

Colette Manila camisole

Sewaholic - Extended Size Range and two new patterns

If you've been avoiding Sewaholic patterns in the past because you're just a bit outside of their size range, Tasia made an exciting announcement the other day: Sewaholic will be adding sizes 18 and 20 to their new pattern releases going forward, which means that new patterns will go up to a 45"  (114cm) bust and a 51" (130cm) hip. Tasia even hopes to be able to go back and add the new sizes to some of their best-selling patterns. Now, as an uber-busty/thickened waist hourglass (I guess that makes me a rectangle?), I'm about as far from the Sewaholic body type as you can get, but I've long ogled the Minoru jacket (seriously, why don't more pattern makers do outerwear? Seattlites aren't the only people who need hoods!) and the Cambie dress, which I've always thought was super cute, I hope that both of those patterns make the new size cut. The new size range means that I can just do an FBA on these patterns and possibly add a bit to the waist, rather than having to grade up to even get the bust to my high bust size. Is anyone else excited about this?

Granville shirt

In addition to the expanded size range, Tasia also released her first new pattern to include sizes 18 & 20--the Granville shirt.

Sewaholic Granville shirt

This might seem like another boring basic, but IMO, this is exactly the type of basic that the fitting/niche pattern makers should include in their portfolios. This shirt appears to be less boxy than the super popular Grainline Archer, already has bust darts, and although I couldn't find a picture showing this anywhere, has princess seams in back, according to the pattern description. Coupled with the pocket options, this shirt really seems like the perfect button-down shirt design for a pear figure.  Hell, it even has a yoke and other classic shirt details--the type that too often seem to be left out of Big 4 button-down shirt patterns. I honestly can't think of another shirt pattern that combines both a yoke and princess seams in back.

With my big butt/swayback issues in back, I'm really tempted by this one. It's drafted for a B-cup (as are all Sewaholic patterns), but having that shoulder yoke gives more options for dart rotation so that my FBA doesn't create a completely unruly dart. This pattern looks like a really great basic that could be made again and again, making it worth its indie price.

Oakridge Blouse

The day after releasing the Granville shirt, Tasia released the Oakridge Blouse, a pretty, feminine blouse with the option of a pussy bow or a scooped neckline. I really like this as a pattern that can be dressed up or dressed down. Like the Granville, it has waist shaping so as not to be too boxy but promises a fit that isn't too tight, either.

Sewaholic Oakridge blouse

I'm less tempted by this one, only because I already own the somewhat similar HotPatterns version of this blouse, which is a closer draft for my figure. I do really like the collarless/bow-less view, too, for a casual, pretty blouse. I may need to use this pattern as inspiration and hack that detail onto an existing pattern of mine.

Simplicity - Early Spring 2015 Collection

Unlike the Butterick early spring release a few weeks ago, the Simplicity spring release is kind of "meh" in my opinion. There's nothing really terrible here, but there's also nothing really exciting. I don't know about you, but I prefer more highs and lows in my pattern collection releases. In any case, here are a few that whispered to me, even if they didn't outright call to me.

Simplicity 1197

I thought that this vintage dress and lined swing coat were quite cute. With its seaming and color blocking (as styled) the dress actually looks pretty current. In another fabric, the coat would look retro-inspired and not costumey, as well.

Simplicity 1197

Simplicity 1198

So, this pattern has a view that's reminiscent of a similar HotPatterns top that I made a while back, which was similar to a Burda pattern that many people made last year. There's also a view with a fairly modest lace cutout in back. I'm not daring enough to do the skin-showing cutouts that have been popping up, but I could maybe do a more toned-down version like this one. And if either of those views are not to your taste, the simple tunic with the assymmetrical hem is a shape that I've been seeing EVERYWHERE lately.

Simplicity 1198

Simplicity 1199

On a similar note, Simplicity 1199 has that crossover/tulip back that we've been seeing everywhere for the past few months, but has a built-in underlayer for those of us who don't want to risk showing skin or bra backs. There's panel seaming, too. Out of this collection, this is the pattern that I'd be most likely to make.

Simplicity 1199

Final Thoughts

Out of this bunch, the ones that I'm most likely to buy/make is Simplicity 1199. I'm fighting the urge on that Sewaholic Granville because "drafted for a B cup/pear figure". Maybe I should finally make up the Archer pattern instead and see if that satisfies my urge for a button-down shirt pattern? What do you think of the new Sewaholic patterns and their expanded size range?