We only had a few new pattern releases this past week:
- Colette Patterns
- Paprika Patterns
- StyleArc
Colette Patterns: Aster blouse
The online has been very split it its opinion of the latest offering from Colette Patterns--the Aster blouse:
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| Colette Aster blouse |
On one hand, it looks like one of those easy, sew-in-an-afternoon projects that makes for a nice summer blouse. I would totally wear this style, and the pattern doesn't take much fabric. That said, I really liked the Sewaholic Oakridge blouse, but have shied way from it because it's totally not drafted for my figure type.
On the other hand, it took Colette over SIX MONTHS to release this pattern after releasing the Dahlia last fall. A six month wait for a very basic blouse pattern??? So I'm a little underwhelmed there. I think that my disappointment largely stems from Sarai saying that they were publishing Seamwork and its accompanying PDF patterns so that they could concentrate on more complex patterns from the main Colette line. But then the first pattern that they release after launching Seamwork looks like a Seamwork pattern?
I'm torn. For a $6 PDF, I'd jump at buying this pattern, but for full-price pattern, I'm a little more hesitant. To be honest, I felt a little burned by getting sucked into the pretty photos and line drawings for the Dahlia and was unpleasantly surprised by all of the drafting issues that popped up when people actually started sewing that pattern. I know that there are some concerns about the neckline with the Aster, but I have somewhat substantial, square-ish shoulders, and know that I could pretty easily tweak the neckline on this as needed (should be quite easy to do with a bias tape neckline finish), so I'm less concerned about that aspect than others.
Paprika Patterns: Onyx Shirt
On Thursday, Paprika Patterns released their take on the woven t-shirt with the Onyx shirt. This pattern has two views--a cropped and regular-length version, both with hi-lo hems. The regular length version has a cuff/epaulet detail on the sleeve. The cropped version has a more exaggerated hi-lo hem and also has waist darts for shaping. I couldn't find any line drawings for these, but here are photos showing both views:
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| Paprika Onyx top |
StyleArc: Mid-May 2015 release
StyleArc's mid-month releases lately tend to either be designer patterns that aren't typical of StyleArc's aesthetic or are fairly basic patterns that Chloe & co. aren't going to showcase as a given month's main release. The mid-May release falls into the latter category in that StyleArc released a couple of beach/pool coverup patterns.
Summer Cover Up
The Summer Cover Up is a cute cover up, but it also looks like a mashup of the two free HotPatterns cover ups available on fabric.com:
Peachy Beach Cover Up
Medina Mini Caftan
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| StyleArc Summer Cover Up |
Holiday Maxi Cover Up
The Holiday Maxi is pretty enough, and you could probably wear it as a day dress, if you're able to go braless or wear a strapless bra.
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| StyleArc Holiday Maxi Cover Up |
Final Thoughts
The only one of these that I'm at all tempted by is the Aster. I was really hoping that we'd have seen a few of these pop up before the end of the launch discount for this pattern had ended. As disappointed as I was that Colette released another basic design, I do actually like the design myself, but I also want to see what it looks like made up on a (preferably curvy) body before pulling the trigger.I figure that most of the discussion in the comments this week will be about the Aster, so what do you think about it? Any thoughts on any of the other new patterns this week?
Nothing for me. I like the idea of Aster but Collette drafting just doesn't line up well with my body.
ReplyDeleteI'll also be waiting to see what other people do with the Aster pattern before I decide whether I like it or not. The pattern photos don't do much for me, but the line drawings seem promising. The pintucks at the shoulder on view B keep pulling me in.
ReplyDeleteI'm thinking pretty seriously about buying the Onyx pattern. I don't have a woven tee pattern yet, and I like the cuff and button tab detail on the sleeves. I have some stash fabric that I think would play very nicely with that style and I've liked the test versions I've seen so far. I'd never wear the cropped version, but I'm still drawn to it so I might have to make that view up for one of my younger sisters.
I really like that cuff detail, too. I might knock it off and morph it onto my HotPatterns woven tee at some point.
DeleteI almost bought the Paprika Onyx just for the sleeve and tab details. BUT they look easy enough to do on other woven T patterns.
DeleteWhen did the Southport come out? Because I hate it already. Played out-- like "Stairway to Heaven."
The Southport came out in late April. I actually like it, but it's similar to a couple of patterns that I already own.
DeleteI'm definitely not torn about the Aster. I think it looks badly drafted and as long as one has to do neckline tweaks, why not just start with a better drafted and cheaper button front blouse? Sarai/Colette excel at marketing. Not so much at actual patterns IMNSVHO. I'm hoping to be proved wrong, but I don't think we'll see very many Asters in the wild on anyone with curves and bust and/or mad alterations skillz. I'm also with you on the wonderment of THIS is what is released after all that time and "concentration" ??
ReplyDeleteAmen!
DeleteI wonder if Colette changed drafting people or methods at some point. I don't recall the earlier patterns having the drafting issues that the more recent patterns have had, and I made a few of the earlier patterns.
DeleteI don't know. Sarai isn't too transparent about any of her (hired?) drafting.
DeleteThere's a review on PR. It's 200 words or less, and gives nothing away. But I'm seeing a bra strap in the photo which helps to confirm my thoughts about that neckline and the too-wide shoulders.
Yeah, I thought that the top looked cute on her, but the review wasn't particularly enlightening.
DeleteMichelle i hope you are enjoying wearing your awesome jeans! Great look!
ReplyDelete"... unpleasantly surprised by all of the drafting issues that popped up when people actually started sewing that pattern."
yeah - it can be so hard to hold off, but boy it is worth it nine times out of ten. I have limited space, money and time to sew; plus i value consistency in my personal style. All these factors make buying fewer, well chosen patterns the wiser choice.
But those pretty pictures! ah well, blogs like yours help me keep my focus :)
hmm, i have never taken how long a company takes to produce a design into account when deciding to buy. I can't imagine how it would make any difference to what i get out of the pattern - i'll have to think on it and see if i change my mind.
re: the Aster, "depending on the reviews" (ahem, ha!) i could go for this one. I had Calvin Klein for Vogue 1878 in the 1980's and it is one of my all time most used patterns. I made the vee neck, quite similar to the CK - simple little blouse to make and wear, flattering, doesn't use much fabric or buttons so a gal can splurge a little, can wear it with skirt, many suits, evening wear, jeans - REALLY useful. I was chuffed to see the Aster pop up! It even has a little dart, am improvement over the boxier CK design.
My style runs to the lagenlook/edwardian and it is easy as pie to add pintucks, a lace yoke, crocheted edging, load on the little glass buttons, etc. I'll be keeping an eye on how this one is reviewed.
I became more aware of pattern release cycles when I started following a lot more pattern companies. The Big 4 all release four major, seasonal collections a year with a few minor releases thrown in. As far as the indies go, you've got ones like Jalie, Named, and Papercut who release 1-2 "collections" per year, usually of 5-10 new patterns. At the more prolific end of the scale, you've got StyleArc and HotPatterns who average a new pattern release every few weeks but who put more emphasis on trendier designs and less emphasis on hand-holding instructions. Then, at the opposite end of the scale, you've got the one-or two-women shop companies that release one pattern (usually with detailed instructions).
DeleteColette has a staff of ~10 now, and while I would think that they're spending a fair amount of resources on Seamwork, I'd kind of think that if they're going to only release one pattern every 4 to 6 months (as has been their track record), those few patterns should be really amazing.
I've been waiting impatiently for months for Jalie to release this years patterns! Come one, Jalie! I wanna fall in love with your new patterns! ;)
DeleteGreat roundup as usual!
ReplyDeleteNothing for me this week. Well I did think the Onyx was cute', but my experience with the scout tells me that the dartless/gatherless/pleatless tee just isn't for me.
Didn't you make that McCall's woven tee? I'm trying to remember--didn't you also run into some of the armscye wonkiness that some ran into with that pattern (but the sleeveless version was okay)?
DeleteThe McCall's one does have a dart...and the sleeveless version was okay.
DeleteI tried to make the sleeved version for my daughter and it was all bad.
After opening the pre-sale e-mail late at night and seeing the flutter-sleeved version, I impulse purchased the Aster. I'm not a big fan of the two more traditional views, but that third one could look absolutely adorable with summer skirts. Honestly though, I'm regretting the purchase, after giving it a closer look the next morning and since. The neckline will definitely need some tweaking. Seeing as I've already bought the damn thing, though, I'll probably make it soon. We'll see those curvy questions answered, at least!
ReplyDeleteI am looking forward to seeing your version of it!
DeleteThis was the first time I've seen the Aster and my initial reaction was that I really liked it! But then I realised it wasn't a seamwork pattern... I'm with you, for a seamwork pattern I would be enthusiastic but for a full pattern? I dunno.
ReplyDeleteOn the one hand, it's a basic pattern. But there's nothing wrong with that, I am in fact always on the look out for basic blouses that aren't full on dress shirts. It suits my style, and they are surprisingly hard to find! However, I'd definitely have to tweak that neckline, and now I'm having flashbacks to the sleeve dramas I had with Jasmine - sleeves too small, armscyes too low, never managed to make it comfortably wearable without also making it look terrible, abandoned it in a rage. I'm a better sewist now but I don't think I'll be buying Aster anytime soon. Although I could be convinced if there are a lot of nice makes.
On the third hand, I probably have an Ottobre with a pattern very like that, since they do a good line in basic shapes. Which is why I won't be buying the paprika tshirt, either. It looks great, and adaptable, but I already have a tnt ottobre shirt like that.
Yes, Ottobre Woman had a darted woven tee a few issues back. that would probably be a good starting point to hack the Aster from.
DeleteI'm not a fan of the Aster. I had hoped for something more from Colette patterns and haven't been impressed with the Seamwork patterns, either. I'm still a fan of them, but a less click to buy happy fan. I'm a little bit more reserved.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the links to those free beach coverup patterns! I love them. I think I will be added that to my summer sewing list along with a bathing suit! :D
I haven't bought any of the Seamwork patterns yet. I like the idea of them, but there haven't been any offerings that I both liked and didn't already own something similar.
Delete"...why not just start with a better drafted and cheaper button front blouse?" Hi Michelle! Debbie Cook asks an interesting question here.
ReplyDeleteI don't buy a lot of patterns, and the only line i've seen that addressed vee-necks so they won't gape is Hot Patterns (their Chameleon and P & S Shift Dresses both have separately drafted facings which are shorter along the neckline, with the grain going along the neckline seam).
Are there any other lines that consistently do this type of drafting for vees? And mightn't it make more sense to find a non-gaping vee that works, then add the button placket/facing rather than working with a button-front, rather than drafting a vee neck plus facing onto your typical button all the way up the front?
I know this is a pesky question, and understand you may not have the time or inclination to research an answer...but if you have any info at the tip of the tongue, as it were, i am all ears! Thank you and happy monday, steph
It's the attention to little details like these that make me a HotPatterns fangurl. Stuff like that--and orders-of-construction in the instructions making sense, tummy panels in pant patterns, etc.
DeleteBut to answer your question, no, I don't happen to know of any other pattern lines off the top of my head that do that. Betsy (from SBCC) tends to draft for a real human body and a few other pattern lines do outsource their drafting/grading to her, so she'd be another one to look at. The V on my Mimosa blouse doesn't gape.
Thank you Michelle! oh, yeah, same with me and Trudy. I love the way she follows trends and interprets them for the home sewer as well, in ways where you can really get a lot of mileage out of one pattern. Her attention to design details is just as sharp as her eye for drafting details - swoon.
DeleteI never regret buying from her, even if i never make up the pattern, i get so much out of her designs and videos!
Frankly i am old and crusty enough to just draft it out myself if i'm that interested. But i see comments that say 'well, just go get that well-drafted pattern...." with no particular pattern linked, and i wonder where the well-drafted patterns are!
Thank you again - i thought maybe i was missing something ;) Looking forward to your next CSC article!
(I apologize if I posted twice)
ReplyDeleteHi Michelle, thanks for your very informative blog. Glad I found CSC and you. I have just gotten back to sewing my own clothes in the last 6 months. I have no experience with Colette but I liked the simpleness of Aster and I need a button down pattern for woven fabric. I did buy the pattern but what really sold me was that it is drafted up to a size 26. Most of the indie patterns only go to an 18. I'm still going to at least make a muslin, but now I will be forewarned. If the fit is way off, I'll check the patterns that others have suggested.
Yes, and the fact that Colette now offers a wider size range isn't something that's lost on me.
DeleteLove your pattern roundups!
ReplyDelete(Also, love your new Big Honkin' Dart (BHD) post on the Curvy Sewing Collective. I especially appreciate your comment about how hard it is to avoid the dreaded dart tip bubble when dealing with a BHD. When I kept running in that problem, I thought it was me and that I'd forgotten everything I ever knew about how to sew a dart correctly. I'm looking forward to your further posts on the BHD challenge. (And, yes, I did try to post this comment on the CSC blog, but just cannot seem to figure out CSC's posting protocol. I've asked CSC for help.))
Where are you having trouble posting? In comments to the blog or on the forum?
DeleteBoth! But as I said, CSC/Tanya has promised a post on "how to post".
DeleteAlso, want to let you know that your CSC post today, Part 2 of BHD, has once again, solved one of my sewing mysteries, i.e., why Y-darts have never worked out well for me. Your explanation and diagram make it clear: it adds too much fabric to my small upper chest area. Can't wait for the next installment!
The blog commenting functionality uses disqus. You should be able to log in using your google or other social media handle.
DeleteFor the forums, you will need to create a new account and login there.
Just before Aster came out, I was reading a grainline tutorial for making Alder collarless, and Jen mentioned that a v-neckline should always be slightly concave so that it looks straight on a human body. I think the Colette v is totally straight, and now when I look at it all I see is how it appears to be convex! (Does that make any sense? I think I think a curved v line would make a nicer join with the back neckline, and lead to less bra strap showing... but then again, I'm not the target for woven things with buttons! Aghhh! Run for the hills!!!! ;)
ReplyDeleteI remember seeing that post from Jen--I found that really interesting. I know her styles aren't for everyone, but she really seems to know her drafting.
Delete*sigh* I am really looking forward to the day when I can have a woven button-down shirt that fits the way that I like!
I am disappointed with Colette. I've been looking forward to new styles I their expanded size range and all we have are knits (which I do like) and the Dahlia (which is in my thumbs down pile). The new top looks like something that belongs in Seamwork. It seems to me that they're putting their efforts toward that venture and abandoning their more challenging patterns. I love Colette, but I guess it's Colette of yesteryear I'm a fan of and not the new incarnation. I haven't bought any of their Seamwork patterns either.
ReplyDeleteI do love those swimsuit cover-ups! Just what I was looking for!! :)