The pattern that I used is HotPatterns Plain & Simple Woven Tee & Dress, which is HotPatterns entry in the woven t-shirt category:
|HotPatterns Woven Tee|
|HotPatterns Plain & Simple Woven Tee & Dress|
Fabric and Notions UsedNote that I made a muslin of this pattern first, to check dart placement, bust fit, etc, so I felt comfortable using a more-expensive-than-normal-for-me fabric for this top.
- Cotton-lycra shirting from Emma One Sock (purchased on a recent retail therapy binge)
- Interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply
Pattern Sizing and AlterationsThis pattern is available in HotPatterns sizes 6-26 (32"-52" bust).
I used a size 18 for the neck and shoulders and graded to a size 20 at the armscye. Additionally, I made the following pattern alterations:
- 1" Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) using the Palmer-Pletsch slash-and-spread method. The resulting dart size was manageable, so I left the dart as-is without rotating parts of it anywhere or making other modifications.
- Lowered the bust dart by 1".
- Backed the bust dart off of my apex by 2". The darts still feel a little pointy (although my busy print helps hide this). I'll back them off of my apex a bit more the next time that I make this.
- 1" Full bicep adjustment using the Palmer-Pletsch slash-and-spread method.
- Shortened the top by 2". This was an accident; I meant to shorten it by 1" but was clipping fabric while talking to my toddler and accidentally clipped too much. I'll go back to shortening by 1" for the next version.
Let me call out the fact that the bust point is actually marked on this pattern! It's been several years since I've actually seen the bust point marked, so I want to give kudos for that. It made assessing my FBA MUCH easier.
Pattern InstructionsHotPatterns don't have super detailed instructions, but this is a pretty easy pattern. This pattern does have basic illustrations for most steps, and Trudy does remind you when you need to do things like understitch, press your seam allowances, etc. The construction of this top is pretty straightforward, but I don't recall running into anything confusing or weird in the instructions.
It seems like just about every pattern company has a variation on the woven t-shirt. I think that the HotPatterns version has a bit more bust shaping than some of the other options (good, if you're large busted, like I am), but here are a few similar options:
- Grainline Studio Scout tee
- McCall's 6927 (includes cup sizes up to DDD in plus sizes) (I own this pattern but have not sewn it because of some reports I've seen about some oddities with the sleeve drafting, which you can see in the pattern photo)
- Simplicity 1106
- Sewaholic Belcarra blouse