This Week (and Last) in Patterns (25-Sept-2015)

So, no pattern roundup post last week because the only patterns released that I was aware of were the ones from the new Pattern Anthology collection. So, this week, we'll be covering those, the new Sewaholic collection, and the holiday Vogues:

• Pattern Anthology
• Sewaholic 
• Vogue

Pattern Anthology: Unbiased Collection

Ok, I'll admit that I bought this collection back when it was available for a super ridiculous pre-order price, even though there isn't a bloody chance in hell that I'll make two of the patterns. And why would I do this? Do I really have that much of an excess of disposable income? Well no, of course not, but for the time being, the patterns also come bundled with a bunch of significant coupon codes to some of my favorite online vendors and also a few that I've been wanting to try (like Spoonflower). So, out of the four patterns in the bundle, there's one that I'll definitely make, one that I really like and will probably make, and two that I can't see myself ever making. But between the two patterns that I like and all of the coupons, I figured it was a good deal, cost-wise. Anyway, here are the patterns.

Note that the designers in this collective have all recently expanded their size ranges up to 3X--well into the plus sizes. So, regardless of whether you like the designs or not, I feel like more designs for us plus size women is ALWAYS a good thing.

Also note that until the end of the year, these patterns are only available as part of the collection and not available individually. So, that's another reason why I didn't just hold off and buy the 1 or 2 patterns that I really wanted.

Blank Slate: Denver Tunic & Dress

Let's start off with the one that I'm definitely making. In the Blank Slate Facebook group, Melly had actually put out a call for plus size testers for this one a while back, but I passed on it based on the description. Of course, when I saw the line drawing, I ended up kicking myself because with the princess seams and various options, this is right up my alley. I have immediate plans to sew the tunic view, but I also like the fit-and-flare dress (not pictured), too. I'll also admit that I'm biased in that I've had a lot of success with Blank Slate's patterns in the past and am now at the point where I look forward to Melly's new releases.

(And yes, I do notice that one of the models appears to be wearing a garment that's too small in the shoulders. And yes, it's driving me nuts.)

Blank Slate Denver Tunic and Dress

Go To Patterns: Adora Dress and Top

The other one that I like out of this collection is the Adora Dress and Top by Go To Patterns. I like this, frankly, because I think it'll be easy to fit over my giant bum and because I think that it gives some fun options for mixing knits and wovens. I do like the top view of this better than the dress view.

Go To Patterns Adora dress and top

Shwin Designs: Diamond Dress and Top

This is just way too boobtastic for me. Maybe on someone pear-shaped, but not me.

Shwin Designs - Diamond Dress and Top

See Kate Sew: Gwen Dress and Top

This one is just way too Tilly for my personal preferences.

See Kate Sew - Gwen Dress and Top

Sewaholic: Vancouver Collection

After lots of teasers and buzz on Instagram, Tasia from Sewaholic released the Vancouver collection: a collection of active- and outdoors-wear inspired patterns. I'm not Tasia's target customer, so I'm not likely to buy any of these. I do appreciate that she's branching out from beginner patterns and basic skirts and dresses, though.

Fraser Sweatshirt

The Fraser Sweatshirt is a slim-fitting sweatshirt with inset options. I feel the same way about this that I do about the Grainline Lark tee. I can understand why Tasia added this to Sewaholic's portfolio (especially with the success of the Renfrew top), but I won't be buying it.

Sewaholic - Fraser Sweatshirt

Dunbar Top

The Dunbar top is an exercise top with a built-in shelf bra. Given that Sewaholic drafts for a B-cup, there's no way I'd touch this one with a 10-foot pole, even for light exercise like dog walking. This would be too much work for me to re-draft when I already own the Jalie Anne-Marie anyway. The Fehr Trade VNA top is also similar and reportedly tested up to a D-/DD-cup size. But, if you're a pear shape, the Sewaholic is cute.

Pacific Leggings

The Pacific Leggings join the Jalie Cora leggings and Fehr Trade PB Jam Leggings and Steeplechase Leggings as running tights patterns. I can see the appeal of these if you're pear-shaped, but I feel like the piecing/colorblocking potential is more interesting in both the Jalie and Fehr Trade patterns.

Sewaholic - Pacific Leggings

Cypress Cape

The Cypress Cape is probably the most tempting pattern to me, out of this bunch. A) My giant boobs are less likely to interfere with this one and B) it would be practical to own and/or just keep stashed in my desk at work for unexpectedly rainy days.

Sewaholic - Cypress Cape

Seymour Jacket

One of the more interesting pieces in this collection is the short-sleeved hooded Seymour Jacket. If we ever still got rain in Seattle, particularly in the summer, I could see the appeal of this. I also just think it's kind of cute and definitely unique.

Sewaholic - Seymour Jacket

Vogue: Winter/Holiday Collection 2015

Lots of formal and cocktail dresses in this bunch that I have no need for, but a few patterns did stand out to me.

V1468

Let's get this one out of the way first. It's the pit/period-stain dress that has the entire online sewing community giggling. C'mon Vogue, you couldn't do better than this? The dress isn't bad based on the line drawing, but it's not interesting enough to justify that questionable flower placement.

V1468

V9160

Lace romper, anyone?

V9160

V9157

LOVE this jacket/coat. It even has cup sizes!

V9157

V9158

Unappealing styling aside, this is a nice take on an 80's style dress without it actually screaming 80's, IMO. The lack of giant shoulder pads is a huge plus here.

V9158

Final Thoughts

Love it or hate it, the new Sewaholic collection is the most interesting out of the bunch.  As previously mentioned, I do own the Denver tunic and will be making it up and reviewing it soon.  What grabs you out of this bunch? Any must-haves? Or must-avoids?

Last Week in Patterns (12-July-2015)

This past week was a good week for pear-shaped sewists; however, I didn't feel that it was such a good week for my own figure or own personal style. We had releases this past week from the following companies:

• HotPatterns
• Itch to Stitch
• Sewaholic
• Vogue

HotPatterns: Fast & Fabulous Trilogy Shift Dress, Tunic, & Top

The Trilogy dress, tunic, and top appears to basically be HotPatterns take on the RTW trend that I'm sure inspired the True Bias Sutton blouse. I've been seeing similar blouses all over Seattle for the past few months, so it makes sense that multiple pattern companies would offer a take on this style. I already purchased the PDF for this (it's 20% off right now). I've nearly bought the Sutton several times, and since I'm familiar with and trust HotPatterns drafting, I figured this was a sign to finally pull the trigger on this one. I'm currently working on the mini-Southport for my daughter, but I've already prewashed fabric and will be making up the Trilogy top after that.

HotPatterns Trilogy Top, Tunic, and Dress

Itch to Stitch: Angelia Shorts

I don't follow Itch to Stitch all that closely. A few people have brought her patterns to my attention, but I'll be honest that I didn't really pay attention because I was a little turned off by the way she was putting calls out for pattern testers--they're done on a super tight deadline, which makes me question the thoroughness of the testing. Not to re-open the debate on pattern testing again, but I'm of a firm belief that pattern testing is something that you do to check the fit/grading on your patterns and/or the clarity of your instructions.  Outside of that, you're probably looking for someone to sew up your samples for you for free or for free marketing.

Anyway, I'm posting this because frankly, I really like these shorts. I love all of the details on the pockets, and I've been seeing some of these military-esque details on RTW shorts a lot lately. And as a fan of fly fronts, it's really nice to see a new-ish pattern designer offer a pattern with a fly front and not automatically fall back on a drawstring or elastic waist because it's easy.

I don't know if I'd buy these until I see some more reviews on women of larger sizes, but I definitely can see myself morphing some of these details onto a pattern that I already own.

Itch to Stitch: Angelia shorts

Itch to Stitch: Kathryn Top & Dress

Released at the same time as the Angelia shorts was the Kathryn knit top and dress. This top is so wrong for my figure, it's not even funny. Those pleats would open up and look horribly sloppy on my G-cups, not to even get into the bulk that they'd add. It looks okay on the slender, small-busted testers, though. Obviously, this one is a "hell no" from me.

Itch to Stich: Kathryn top and dress

Sewaholic: Harwood dress

The Harwood is one of those dresses that I like the idea of, but I think you need to be Sewaholic's target pear-shaped figure for it to look good. That closed-up neckline is the opposite of what I need for my upper body to avoid looking like one giant boob. The placement of this particular yoke and gathers could also potentially be problematic on a large bust.

On the other hand, if you're small-busted, I think that this dress could nicely balance out your figure, if that's something that you're looking for.

Basically, I like the design of this dress, but this one's not for me.

Sewaholic: Harwood dress

Sewaholic: Nicola dress

I had to laugh (in a good way) when I saw the blog post announcing the Nicola dress. Why did I laugh? I laughed because, as you'll see when I get a chance to blog it, I was just finishing up the very similar Blank Slate Marigold dress and was super happy with how that dress was turning out. A few of the details are a little different, but the basic idea is the same--a shirtdress with a shoulder yoke, shoulder shirring, elastic waist, and flared skirt.

So yeah, I like this a lot, but I have no need for it since I already own and have figured out the fit on the Marigold. I will say that although Tasia from Sewaholic drafts for a pear figure, I think that this dress is going to be a pretty flattering shape on a lot of women, pear figure or not. Those shoulder gathers are a convenient place to rotate a dart from an FBA. (I'll talk about my FBA in more detail in my Marigold post, but everything that I did FBA-wise for the Marigold will apply to the Nicola.)

Sewaholic: Nicola dress

Vogue: Fall 2015 Release

*sigh*  I must be one of the very few people in the SBC who didn't care a whole lot for this Vogue collection. There are very few patterns here that suit both my lifestyle and my figure. It figures--I loved the McCall's Fall Release (and have already bought 3 patterns from the collection), so I probably wasn't going to like any of the other Fall collections from the Big 4 nearly as much.

V1465: Donna Karan Jacket, Skirt, and Top

I like the jacket here, and the top and the skirt are okay, although I wouldn't wear a turtleneck. StyleArc has a few similar jackets, though, and I tend to trust StyleArc's drafting a bit more than most Big 4 drafting.

V1465

V1461: DKNY dress

The early 90's fashion revival, influenced by grunge and riot grrrl influences has been around for a few years at this point. It would figure that we'd start to see fashion influences from the mid-90's starting to show up in collections. This dress just screams "Clueless" to me.

"Sometimes you have to show a little skin. This reminds boys of being naked, and then they think of sex." --Cher Horowitz

V1461

V9124: Misses' Dress

If V1461 screamed Cher Horowitz, then V9124 screams Elaine Benes. Get out!

V9124

V9125: Misses' Dress

Nipple darts!

V9125

V9122: Very Easy Vogue Misses' Jumper

I wonder if these jumpers with the bias insets are expected to be a big thing for fall. McCall's had a variation on this in their fall catalogue.

V9122

Final Thoughts

First of all, I want to mention that a few of us Seattle-area sewing bloggers had a lovely meetup at Drygoods Designs here on Saturday. I even got a chance to meet my fellow CSC editor Jenny/Cashmerette in person! I'll try to pull a few pictures off of Instragram when I get a chance.

The only must-have for me here this week is the new HotPatterns top/tunic/dress, which I'll be sewing up soon. There are a few wait-and-see's, but that's just about it. I know that a lot of people really loved the new Vogues, but I felt that they were mostly kind of "meh". I guess I'm just more of a McCall's woman, when it comes to BMV. Were there any released this week that are on your must-have list?

This Week in Patterns (9-Jan-2015)

I have a little bit of catch-up to do in this week's post. I skipped posting last week because I opted not to post last week, given the craziness of the holidays and wanting to spend my valuable free time sewing rather than blogging. BUT, I am including last week's new release (the StyleArc January release) in this post, in the interest of comprehensively covering what's been new since the 1st of the new year.

StyleArc - January Release

StyleArc released five new patterns at the beginning of this month, all of which look like they could have come from the same runway collection.

Fern Woven Top

This month's set freebie, the Fern Woven top features an on-trend asymmetrical crossover front. This one is cute...for someone else. There's nothing about this top that I feel would be a good idea on my own figure.

StyleArc Fern Woven top

Brooke Woven Skirt

I think that the Brooke Woven skirt is really cute. I also think that it's pretty similar to one of the views of the Tenterhook Snapdragon skirt, which I already own. 

StyleArc Brooke Skirt

Melinda Knit Tunic

The Melinda is cute enough and with its splicing, provides some options for design creativity. On the other hand, it's nothing earth-shattering. I'm kind of surprised that this wasn't the freebie for the month, given that StyleArc's freebies tend to usually be basics-with-a-twist that most women can comfortably wear.

StyleArc Melinda Tunic

Rita Ponte Skirt

And the Rita is a ponte pencil skirt with an elastic waist. I'm not sure how this differs from StyleArc's own Fay skirt, but it looks like just a slight difference in hem? Boy I sound crotchety here, but I'll openly admit that I'm pretty underwhelmed with this month's release from StyleArc.

Rita Ponte Skirt

Lani Woven Tunic

Okay, here's the one pattern that I actually like and think is interesting out of the group. The design lines are interesting and unlike some of the other patterns this release, it looks like the crossover happens at a safe enough point to not have to worry about flashing people. I would wear this--probably making it up in a solid color and doing contrast top-stitching.

StyleArc Lani tunic

 This month, in addition to offering the Fern Woven top free with every order, they're also allowing you to Buy 2, Get 1 Free, out of the January styles. Unfortunately for me (I guess?), but fortunately for my wallet, none of them really grab me or are my style. So, no, I'm not even tempted to take advantage of the special offer this month.

Colette Patterns - Seamwork Issue 2

Colette Patterns released Issue 02 of their new Seamwork magazine. This issue includes articles about hemstitching, working with bias drape, and working with doubleknits. There's also a guest column by Melissa Fehr (Fehr trade), one of my favorite sewing bloggers, about activewear fabrics. (Melissa's article is both interesting and well-written, BTW.)

I was uninspired by the basic cardigan and bag patterns for the first issue, but I think that the two included patterns (for subscribers) in Issue 02 are a little more promising--there's a leggings pattern and a pretty camisole. Neither of these will get me to subscribe, myself (I'm already quite happy with my Cake Espresso pattern for leggings), but at least they're more interesting than a clutch or a tote bag.

Colette Manila leggings

Colette Manila camisole

Sewaholic - Extended Size Range and two new patterns

If you've been avoiding Sewaholic patterns in the past because you're just a bit outside of their size range, Tasia made an exciting announcement the other day: Sewaholic will be adding sizes 18 and 20 to their new pattern releases going forward, which means that new patterns will go up to a 45"  (114cm) bust and a 51" (130cm) hip. Tasia even hopes to be able to go back and add the new sizes to some of their best-selling patterns. Now, as an uber-busty/thickened waist hourglass (I guess that makes me a rectangle?), I'm about as far from the Sewaholic body type as you can get, but I've long ogled the Minoru jacket (seriously, why don't more pattern makers do outerwear? Seattlites aren't the only people who need hoods!) and the Cambie dress, which I've always thought was super cute, I hope that both of those patterns make the new size cut. The new size range means that I can just do an FBA on these patterns and possibly add a bit to the waist, rather than having to grade up to even get the bust to my high bust size. Is anyone else excited about this?

Granville shirt

In addition to the expanded size range, Tasia also released her first new pattern to include sizes 18 & 20--the Granville shirt.

Sewaholic Granville shirt

This might seem like another boring basic, but IMO, this is exactly the type of basic that the fitting/niche pattern makers should include in their portfolios. This shirt appears to be less boxy than the super popular Grainline Archer, already has bust darts, and although I couldn't find a picture showing this anywhere, has princess seams in back, according to the pattern description. Coupled with the pocket options, this shirt really seems like the perfect button-down shirt design for a pear figure.  Hell, it even has a yoke and other classic shirt details--the type that too often seem to be left out of Big 4 button-down shirt patterns. I honestly can't think of another shirt pattern that combines both a yoke and princess seams in back.

With my big butt/swayback issues in back, I'm really tempted by this one. It's drafted for a B-cup (as are all Sewaholic patterns), but having that shoulder yoke gives more options for dart rotation so that my FBA doesn't create a completely unruly dart. This pattern looks like a really great basic that could be made again and again, making it worth its indie price.

Oakridge Blouse

The day after releasing the Granville shirt, Tasia released the Oakridge Blouse, a pretty, feminine blouse with the option of a pussy bow or a scooped neckline. I really like this as a pattern that can be dressed up or dressed down. Like the Granville, it has waist shaping so as not to be too boxy but promises a fit that isn't too tight, either.

Sewaholic Oakridge blouse

I'm less tempted by this one, only because I already own the somewhat similar HotPatterns version of this blouse, which is a closer draft for my figure. I do really like the collarless/bow-less view, too, for a casual, pretty blouse. I may need to use this pattern as inspiration and hack that detail onto an existing pattern of mine.

Simplicity - Early Spring 2015 Collection

Unlike the Butterick early spring release a few weeks ago, the Simplicity spring release is kind of "meh" in my opinion. There's nothing really terrible here, but there's also nothing really exciting. I don't know about you, but I prefer more highs and lows in my pattern collection releases. In any case, here are a few that whispered to me, even if they didn't outright call to me.

Simplicity 1197

I thought that this vintage dress and lined swing coat were quite cute. With its seaming and color blocking (as styled) the dress actually looks pretty current. In another fabric, the coat would look retro-inspired and not costumey, as well.

Simplicity 1197

Simplicity 1198

So, this pattern has a view that's reminiscent of a similar HotPatterns top that I made a while back, which was similar to a Burda pattern that many people made last year. There's also a view with a fairly modest lace cutout in back. I'm not daring enough to do the skin-showing cutouts that have been popping up, but I could maybe do a more toned-down version like this one. And if either of those views are not to your taste, the simple tunic with the assymmetrical hem is a shape that I've been seeing EVERYWHERE lately.

Simplicity 1198

Simplicity 1199

On a similar note, Simplicity 1199 has that crossover/tulip back that we've been seeing everywhere for the past few months, but has a built-in underlayer for those of us who don't want to risk showing skin or bra backs. There's panel seaming, too. Out of this collection, this is the pattern that I'd be most likely to make.

Simplicity 1199

Final Thoughts

Out of this bunch, the ones that I'm most likely to buy/make is Simplicity 1199. I'm fighting the urge on that Sewaholic Granville because "drafted for a B cup/pear figure". Maybe I should finally make up the Archer pattern instead and see if that satisfies my urge for a button-down shirt pattern? What do you think of the new Sewaholic patterns and their expanded size range?