Monday, July 20, 2015

Last Week in Patterns (19-July-2015)

Yeah, so this week's post is a little late. Going into the weekend, the only new patterns that we had were the two Tilly patterns, and I was debating whether to even publish the post for that or to just hold off and add these into whatever we end up with in this coming week's post.

Of course, then over the weekend, we had the release of a new BurdaStyle Plus collection and of a really cool (IMO) Muse pattern, but I was super busy with other things and didn't get a chance to update the draft of this post until now. Better late than never, right?

Anyway, in the past week, we had new releases from the following pattern companies:
  • BurdaStyle Plus
  • Muse
  • Tilly and the Buttons
BurdaStyle Plus: August 2015 "Tea Time" Collection

Oh Burda, you sure do like your boxy-with-a-bust-dart styles for plus sized women, don't you? You know, you can do things like utilize princess seams and creative tucks and gathers to add bust and waist shaping to a pattern, right?

This collection isn't offensive like some Burda Plus collections are; on the other hand, there isn't much of anything to get excited about here, either. The model is cute, though, and they managed to find the perfect shade of red lipstick for her.

BurdaStyle 08-2015 #132: Open Coat

First up is a boxy coat with a bust dart.

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #132

BurdaStyle 08-2015 #128:Keyhole Blouse (short-sleeved), 129: Keyhole Blouse (long-sleeved), 130:Keyhole Dress

Next up is a cute, but boxy, peasant dress and blouses with a keyhole opening and a bust dart:

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #130
Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #129
Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #128

BurdaStyle 08-2015 #127A & B

Next up is two views of a gently flared dress with a drape feature and curved French bust darts:

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #127B

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #127B

BurdaStyle 08-2015 #126A & B: Cuffed Sleeve Shirtdress

Moving along, we have a boxy shirtdress with a bust dart:

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #126B

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #126A

BurdaStyle 08-2105 #131: Culottes

Finally, we have a pair of culottes. These do not have a bust dart.

Burda (Plus) 08-2015 #131
Muse: Sophie Cardigan

I've learned to get excited every time I see a new pattern announcement from Muse because I've learned that Muse designs things that no one else is currently doing, yet are actually practical for many of us to wear. The new Sophie cardigan (named after fellow CSC Editor Sophie of Two Random Words) is no exception. It's sort of like a cross between a traditional cardigan and a track jacket, and like all Muse patterns, it has a lot of different options for details. It's also on sale right now, as a new release, until July 27th.

While some of the samples leave a bit to be desired from a construction standpoint, I really love the design and options for this. I don't personally love that big collar, but I do really love the v-neck. I've already purchased this--I think it will make a great cool-weather topper for all of the summer dresses I expect to be sewing.

Muse - Sophie Cardigan

Tilly and the Buttons: Fifi Camisole and Shorts set

This pattern is not for me, but I don't hate it. I think that this lounging set is both cute and appropriate for what's becoming increasingly clear to be Tilly's target total/near-total beginner customer base.

Tilly and the Buttons - Fifi set

Tilly and the Buttons: Bettine dress

I actually kind of like the Bettine dress, as well. There's a similar Modcloth dress that I've been looking to knock off, although the Modcloth has set-in sleeves. I've been seeing these elastic-waist style woven t-shirt dresses all over Seattle since the spring, so I'm not going to complain about Tilly following a very clear RTW trend. Plus, I like that Tilly's version incorporates pockets, and I like the Bettine's neckline, too.

However, I won't be buying this one because at this point. Unless the Big 4 comes out with a cheapo version of this (surprisingly, I haven't been able to find one), I'll probably use my HotPatterns woven tee to knock off the Modcloth dress that I have in mind--I want my set-in sleeves.

Tilly and the Buttons - Bettine dress

Final Thoughts

So for me, the only must-have this week is that Sophie cardigan--I can't imagine not getting my money's worth from that one. I feel like all of the Pontes in my stash that have been waiting for a non-waterfall cardigan but are too beefy for a Muse Jenna cardigan finally now have a pattern that they'll match with.

We're still waiting on Fall collections from New Look and Butterick, so I'd expect to start seeing those appear in the next week or two.

Did anything from this week grab you?


25 comments:

  1. The Muse carid is very nicely thought out - especially the round neckline. Having it hit a couple of inches lower than the traditional jewel neck increases the wearability so much for anyone with bust/shoulders. Great to see the pocket options too!

    The burda dress with the drape collar is beautiful and elegant. Love it in a heavy silk crepe.

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    1. Yes! I really like the round neckline on the Sophie, too. More coverage than a scoop, but not so covered up to give a uniboob look.

      The Burda dress has potential on someone with the right figure for it.

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  2. I like the coat, I love that scarf-draped dress (!), and I kind of like the navy shirtdress. I've never sewn a Burda pattern before, though. I'm assuming these all would be purchased as a download, correct?

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    1. You can purchase via the download link, but be aware that you'll need to add seam allowances and that Burda instructions for downloads and the magazine aren't particularly detailed. (The Burda envelope pattern instructions, on the other hand, are fine.)

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  3. I'm loving the Sophie cardigan. I like the various options, and particularly the two very different pocket options.

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  4. Sophie gives me pause due to the raglan sleeves. I've tried on raglan sweaters and literally look like a beach ball (I have a large bust and thought the diagnonal lines from neck to bust just widened me even more in a most unflattering way). I'm pretty sure the sweaters I tried on had jewel necklines though.

    Will raglan sleeves with a V neck be more flattering?

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    1. I know there's a school of thought that raglan sleeves aren't a good option for those with a large bust, but honestly, I don't really notice any difference on myself between set-in sleeves and a well-fit raglan. Maybe it's because my shoulders are on the square side?

      That v-neck will definitely be flattering.

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  5. I really like the Sophie though I'm not a fan of raglan sleeves on me. I also like the Burda 127 dresses. I've seen these sleeves on 1930s dresses and like them. It might work on my pear shape (or maybe not, but worth a try).

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  6. I would give the Sophie a try. I love raglan sleeves, and mixing those with a v-neck makes for some cute cardis!

    Call me crazy, but I think I would try the burda culottes. To me these are more gaucho than culotte but that is just splitting hairs.

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    1. Yeah, they're not really as full as I expect culottes to be, but kudos to Burda for including a current trend in their plus patterns (something that they're not particularly good about doing a lot of the time).

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  7. I would give the Sophie a try. I love raglan sleeves, and mixing those with a v-neck makes for some cute cardis!

    Call me crazy, but I think I would try the burda culottes. To me these are more gaucho than culotte but that is just splitting hairs.

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  8. I saw a well done Bettine dress over at cookin' & craftin'.
    Liked the tulip skirt.

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  9. I love the Sophie cardi, but I am a card-carrying Muse Patterns fangirl and tester. Due to the wedding, I didn't get to test this release, but Kat sent me it as a present! :D :D Lucky Lady I am. I am so looking forward to using up all my ponte fabric for this one, too. :) Expect many Sophies from me.

    I actually like a lot of the Burda release. I don't think they are styled well, though, and I definitely don't think the model is quite in the size range. I think done right a lot of them could look really great. I'm with Alicia in liking the culottes. I also love the long-sleeved blouse. Some of the dress are okay, but I would definitely want a belt with them to add a little more shape. I have to say lately I've been liking a boxy shape. I'm not sure I will sew it up, but I'm coming around to the oversized boxy trend...

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    1. The peasant blouse is okay in blouse-form, I thought. I just couldn't believe the repetitiveness when looking through the collection, and I think that's what made me a little grumpy. Individually, some of the pieces *are* nice.

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  10. I just got my August Burda last night and really loved many of the plus patterns. I love that dress with the overlay at the shoulder. So pretty!

    I thought the Muse cardigan was cute too but will have to see it made up around the internets first. Well, "first"...I probably won't buy it but will admire it. :)

    Tilly's patterns are really a non-starter for me. However, the PJ set is cute but I bought the Grainline Lakeside as soon as it came out and have yet to sew it...Womp womp.

    And the neckline on the Bettine gives me the sads. I think V8985 is close enough and that the v-neck is probably more universally flattering. I have polka-dot chambray that has been meaning to become V8985 for some time ;-) Soon I hope!

    Oooh and that Burda shirtdress is kinda cute too!!! Love the small details.

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    1. I'd never noticed that Vogue before (the styling is so not-me), but I actually quite like it. And yeah, it will probably also be more flattering on more women.

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  11. I can't wait to see some more versions of the Sophie -- including yours! The test photos don't grab me, but I like the line drawings and think you could really do a lot with that pattern. I prefer the v-neck to the collared one and those raglan sleeves make me like it even more. I'm more of a rounded neck cardi person, but this pattern reminds me of my grandpa's v-neck cardi that I love to wear.

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    1. I really like Kat's designs--she does some really fun and unique stuff, but there have been a few patterns (the Melissa blouse/dress and this one come to mind) where the samples have had some questionable fabric choices or construction. So, there's that barrier that you have to look past until you start to see more versions popping up on people's blogs.

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    2. I came back to say that I just saw a review on PR for the Sophie that really caught my eye!

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    3. Yes! Her version looked really nice.

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  12. (Here she is, with another FBA question - does she ask them EVERY week???) ... For the Sophie cardigan, I've looked up Debbie Cook's Dartless FBA on raglan tops method, but based on my efforts with this technique in the past, I'm wondering about creating a dart and rotating it to the raglan seam. Could you see this working?

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    1. Yes, that will definitely work. You can even just gather or ease the dart (depending on how large the dart is), rather than sewing an actual dart. Depending on how much of an FBA I need on this pattern, that's what I'm going to do (gather or ease the dart into the raglan seam).

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  13. Waiting on new Kwik Sew too! But I think they release new patterns just twice a year... so maybe won't see their Fall/Winter releases til September?

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    1. Oh Kwik Sew...I used to look forward to those releases, but for the past couple of years, post-BMV-buy-out, they've trended awfully far to the crafty side of things for my taste.

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  14. Love the Muse pattern, but like everyone else, I'm sick sick sick of the Burda Plus line! Joi Mahon has a great book on fitting and I've been using that to sew the "regular' Burda patterns. I like the peasant top and since I saw yours from Hot Patterns, it's been a plan! Thank you for all the work you do posting all the new designs!

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