The StyleArc Amber overlay panel construction post

As I mentioned in a previous post, I'd like to do an occasional series of posts where I de-mystify the construction process for some of my favorite indie pattern lines that are known for their minimalist instructions. I sort of did this back with my Lekala wadder a few months ago, and I figured that the StyleArc Amber top that I finished last week was also a good candidate. This post will walk you through constructing the overlay panels and top-stitching them to the top, including tips and "gotchas" that I discovered along the way.

If you'll recall, the StyleArc Amber is a loose-fitting raglan sleeve top with overlay panels, where you can add color blocking or optional piping.

StyleArc Amber top

For my version, I underlined a black lace with black ponte (my fashion fabric), and used white, store-purchased piping for contrast. My version was inspired by a RTW top:

StyleArc Amber - my version

You'll have four panel pieces that you'll be working with:

• Back neck panel -1
• Front neck panels - 2
• Center front (CF) panel - 1

Some general tips that I've found for working with piping:

• Cut your piping pieces longer than you think you'll need. It doesn't hurt to have a little extra length--sometimes you need it, and you can always trim the extra length later.
• Use pins or a 2-sided adhesive (e.g. Wonder Tape) to base your piping to your fabric.
• If your piping will cross a seam line, you can pull the end of the cording out a little bit, clip it, then "unscrunch" your piped fabric piece so that you don't have to sew over the cording itself. 

To construct the panels for this top (with piping):

1. Apply lightweight interfacing to each panel piece. I skipped this step, thinking it would add too much bulk, but that was a mistake on my part. You need the interfacing to stabilize the pieces, so use a lightweight interfacing if you're concerned.
2. Match up the flat edge of the piping with the flat edge of the seam allowance with your first panel piece, and stitch the piping to the piece. I use a zipper foot and move my needle as close as I can to the corded edge of the piping before I stitch:
   

   

   Stitching piping

3. Repeat this step of stitching your piping for all five panel pieces:
   
   

   

   Finished piped panel pieces

   My cat generously agreed to model my piped panel pieces:
   
   

   

   Gratuitous kitty helper pic

   
   
4. Construct the back piece:
   1. Pin the right side of the back neck panel to the wrong side of the top's back.
      
      

      

      Right side of panel piece pinned to wrong side of top
      

   2. Stitch along the neck edge.
   3. Understitch the seam allowance to the top (not the panel piece).
      

      

      Understitching the seam allowance

   4. Flip/press the panel piece over to the right side of the top. Use Wonder Tape (or a similar product) to get the positioning of the panel piece exactly how you want it.
   5. Top stitch the panel piece down along the inside of the corded edge of the piping.
      

      

      Back neck panel top-stitched down

5. Construct the front piece:
   1. Lining up the notches, pin the first front neck piece (right sides together) to the CF column piece. Make sure that your seam allowances for the piping are folded up, so that the corded edge of the piping is at the bottom of the panel complex.
   2. Stitch as close to the piping cord as you can get (continue to use a zipper foot):
      

      

      Left front neck panel stitched to CF panel piece

   3. Repeat for the second front neck panel piece.
   4. Flip the neck panel pieces so that everything is in its right place. Press/finger press.
   5. Top stitch the seam allowances of the panel pieces down by butting your zipper foot up against the cording of the CF panel piece. This will help stabilize your panels.
      
      Your front panels should now look like this:
      

      

      Front panel pieces

   6. As you did with your back neck panel, pin the right side of the panel complex to the wrong side of the top front. Stitch the neckline.
   7. Understitch the seam allowance of the neck edge to the garment front.
   8. Flip the panels over so that they are now sitting on the right side of the top. Use your double-sided adhesive to help position the panels exactly how you want them.
   9. Top stitch your panels down to the front of the top:
      

      

      Top front with panels top-stitched down

So that's pretty much it. The rest of the top is quite easy to construct if you've ever made a raglan top before. You will need to bind the top of the sleeves, which makes for a nice, neat finish along with the finished-by-panel neck edges.

For the interested, I hope that I've cleared up any questions or confusion about constructing this portion of this top. And if not, post a question and let me know!