Tuesday, June 9, 2015

Finished Project: Burda 6951, Take 2 (Plus size slender pants)

Remember my wearable muslin jeans from a few weeks ago?

Burda 6915 jeans

Well, it turns out that if you actually use the correct size for your hip measurement, you get a pair of pants that looks like the ones on the pattern envelope. Behold my pant holy grail, a pair of stretch cigarette pants with pockets and a front fly:

Burda (Plus) 6951 - "slim fitting pants"
 I won't write up a full review for this pair since I already reviews this pattern fairly extensively in my original Burda 6915 jeans post, but I will use this post to show you pictures of my new pants and to talk about the changes that I made from my wearable muslin.

As a refresher, here's the back view on my original wearable muslin:

Burda 6951 (wearable muslin)
And here's the back view on the pair that I just sewed up:

Burda 6951 - back view
While I've still got some wrinkles on the back legs (at least partially due to needing a full calf adjustment, I suspect), things sure look a lot "perkier" in the new pair, don't they? Here are the changes that I made from Pair 1 to Pair 2:
  • I went down a size (from a Burda 54 to a Burda 52). The Burda 52 matches my 50" hip measurement, but I was originally scared off from this size because the finished garment measurements included negative ease. (This is a pattern designed for stretch wovens.) Clearly, these run true to size because the 52 is pretty much perfect for me, I think.
  • I added a 1" horizontal wedge at CB on the lengthen-shorten line, tapering to nothing at the side seam. This alteration gives me a bit more vertical length over my rather sizable booty.
  • I took in the legs very slightly--1/4" at both the inseam and outseam, tapering to nothing at the low hip.

 

 Fabric and Notions Used

 

I used the following fabric and notions for this version:
Burda 6951 "guts"

Construction Notes

I constructed these pants as if I were constructing a pair of jeans, minus the flat-felled seams and contrast top-stitching. (I simply used black thread for all top-stitching. I finished all of my seam allowances on my serger and top-stitched the ones that normally would be flat-felled.

For Next Time

 

After wearing these a bit, I could use just a touch more vertical room at the CB seam, so I will probably increase the size of the wedge that I added there by about 1/2".  Upon looking through my pictures, it looks like I (not surprisingly) could use a bit of a large calf adjustment, as well--although I'll be conservative with that because I do want these to fit closely through the legs.

For what it's worth, I'll likely be wearing these rolled up "boyfriend style" when the weather is warm, so here's what they look like when styled like that:

Burda 6951 - boyfriend-style

Final Thoughts

 

I couldn't be happier with how these turned out--I feel like I made a lot of positive progress with my fit, and they're super comfortable to wear.  I want to make this pattern up now in, like, a million prints and colors. Of course, I'll do a pair or two of "traditional" jeans, as well.

32 comments:

  1. Those are some very fancy pants you have going on there! Much better fit with the new size, I agree. :D

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    1. The print is a result of me being irritated with myself for never stepping out of my pant comfort zone (i.e. jeans or black or khaki pants).

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  2. How fun to have pants that fit! They look great, and I really like the rolled up summer look. And the smile on your face pretty much says it all. Good job.

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    1. Thanks! I am looking forward to using this pattern some more and not having to stress about how the finished pants are going to fit.

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  3. I'm impressed. I am still very scared of pants. I keep making them way too big and having to take in a ton. Not only does this not get me the fit and drape I want, I also cannot begin to repeat what I have done! I think you have done really well with these!

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    1. Have you tried any of the StyleArc pant patterns? Based on my own experience and most of their reviews, they seem to run pretty true-to-size.

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  4. Nicely done!!! They do look like a great fit for you compared to the larger size.

    I really loved the rolled up cuff!

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  5. Those look great! Love the print!

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  6. These are super cute! I'm glad you shared this pattern since I haven't seen a lot of plus size jeans patterns in a style I like. I'm sure the instructions aren't great and I have no clue how to construct a fly, but there are enough jeans sew alongs on the web that I can probably figure it out! I have very similar fit issues in the back to what you have, so if you do attempt to sort these out I will be very interested in hearing about it. Not to be creepy (ok, to be totally creepy), I feel like you and I might have similarly shaped backsides.

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    1. You know, there just aren't a ton of jeans patterns out there, period, so if you add being plus sized into the mix, it narrows the options even more.

      I think that these worked out so well because of the Burda crotch curve--there's enough room for an ample seat, but not so much that I have baggy fabric hanging off underneath.

      I'm starting to think that those back leg wrinkles are at least partially caused by needing a knock knee adjustment, but I'm going to google a bit more before proceeding.

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  7. I thought your first pair were good, but these are a wonderful improvement - a great look on you:) I'm very impressed! I have yet to make pants, although I'm about to stick my toe into the shallow end with the Tessuti Margot pants, but last week I tried on a bunch in the store and none of them looked as good on as yours. I know you are going to enjoy wearing these!

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    1. Thanks--the first pair is definitely wearable (and I have been wearing them), but this pair is much more of the look that I was aiming for.

      Good luck with your pants!

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  8. I really like the improvements you've made! Great print. I do think you need some darting at the knee. And in some places in the back. I love the way Peggy at Silhouette has people do pant muslins. She has you do the darting, tapering to nothing and then take the pants apart and then just trace your pants muslin as your new pants pattern, saving you the trouble of having to do your daring and then transfer that darting to your paper pattern piece.

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    1. Yeah, I'll do a bit of research on knock knee and/or full thigh alterations before I tackle my next pair. I think that's at least partially what's going on there. They're better than RTW, though!

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  9. Oh, and I forgot to say how super cute they look rolled up!

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  10. Wow, your new pants look great on. You've done such a good job fitting and sewing and the difference from your previous pair is obvious. Though I probably don't need to tell you as I can tell how pleased you are with the pants by your happy grin :)

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  11. Love these! The fabric is so awesome and the fit is great. :) Looking forward to more versions. :D :D

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    1. Me too! They're really comfortable and no real gap at the waist in the CB--which is a huge deal to me. I am looking forward to having more pairs of these.

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  12. They look great! That print is fun and will go with many solids.

    You really got a great fit! And the blouse looks cute too!

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  13. A+ :) You look chuffed to bits with them - the smile says it all! And rightly so, they look fantastic! Did you make the blouse?

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    1. Yes, I did make the blouse. It's the HotPatterns Refined Peasant blouse, and I'm very happy with how it came out. I'll be blogging about it soon.

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    2. Oh Yay!! I've got that one on my wish list!! :)

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  14. So sweet! Enjoy, they look so chic rolled up i can't stand it! I just totally fall on my face in bright print pants, you make it look so easy. Yay!

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    1. This was a step outside of my comfort zone, but I think they're pretty fun!

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  15. Fabulous pants and a great fit. Love them. Great fabric too.

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  16. I agree with everyone else about the fit: this is a great improvement. I love the fun print as well.

    I am on the fence about back leg wrinkles. I know that my pants can be improved, but can we really get rid of all of the wrinkles? Jeans/pants have similar wrinkles around my calves and I am starting to wonder if this is just normal. We need some movement allowances and I think removing all wrinkles might hinder more than help.

    Anyway, I think going down a size was a good idea. This may be a TNT!

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