Tuesday, June 16, 2015

Finished Project: HotPatterns 1169 - Classix Nouveau Refined Peasant Blouse

So you may have noticed that I was wearing a matching blouse to go with my new pair of Burda 6951 pants. The blouse in question is my new HotPatterns Refined Peasant Blouse, and not to brag, but I feel like I completely nailed the pattern/fabric pairing here:

HotPatterns Refined Peasant Blouse
I used a double gauze for this top, which was my first time working with this fabric, and OMG, I think I'm in fabric love. It's super soft, but lightweight and floaty, but not sheer. I think I want to sew all summer blouses in double gauze from now on.

This is a pretty easy pattern to sew, and I do think that it looks quite similar to the drawing on the envelope. The toughest part of this pattern is getting all of that gathering (and there is lots of gathering) even and looking nice before you stitch on the neckband. (I used pieces of Wash-Away Wonder Tape to baste my gathers into place and to stick them to the neckband before stitching.)

HotPatterns - Refined Peasant Blouse

Fabric and Notions Used

 

I used the following fabric and notions for this version of this pattern:
  • Double gauze cotton purchased from Miss Matatabi. She no longer appears to have the colorway that I used in stock, but mine was the Kobayashi double gauze that she lists for $5.50 per half metre.
  • Pro-weft light fusible interfacing purchased from Fashion Sewing Supply

 

Pattern Sizing and Alterations

 

This pattern is available in HotPatterns sizes 6-26 (32"-52" bust).


This particular pattern is very generously sized. Most women will be able to get away without an FBA on this pattern, and I suspect that most will also be happier with their fit if they go down a size or two than what their measurements would indicate on the size chart.

I sewed a size 18 with the following alterations:
  • 1" FBA with the dart rotated into the neck gathers
  • Shortened the sleeves by 2" (I'm 5'2".)
Note that I have small hands and wrists (they're the only part of me that are small), and I found the cuffs to be a little snug to get over my hands. I would definitely check the circumference of the paper pattern piece and adjust before you cut your fabric for these.

I did end up omitting the optional hem facing. I pinned the (interfaced) facing to my top but just felt like it weighed the look of the top down too much. Instead of the hem facing, I just did a typical hem where I pressed up the hem allowance and top-stitched. If you're using a fairly lightweight fabric, though (e.g. a georgette or a voile), I think that the hem facing could probably help things drape and hang better.

HP Refined Peasant Blouse - back

Pattern Instructions

 

HotPatterns don't have super detailed instructions, but this is a pretty easy pattern. Trudy also has posted a tutorial for this pattern on YouTube, so there's extra help there if you need it:

Pattern page with YouTube tutorial

 

Final Thoughts

 

I really love how my blouse turned out, and when I can find the right fabric for it (preferably a printed double gauze), I would definitely make it again.

I also think that this is a great pattern for apple or rectangle figures--in a drapey fabric, the blouse skims over your curves but doesn't have a defined waist. It's not tentlike to where you have to worry about a maternity effect, but it also doesn't highlight the lack of a waist, if you don't really have one.

18 comments:

  1. Wow, it's lovely! I love that neckline, it seems like you got just the right amount of gathers. Double gauze is a lovley fabric, and that seems to be a pretty good price for it. Great top!

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    1. I agree! I'm hoping that we'll see the price of double gauze start to come down as more places start carrying it in the US.

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  2. I love the top and the pants and the colors you chose! Thanks for the review, I will definitely put this on my wish list!

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  3. That colour is so pretty! And that's a good price - although I'm sure shipping bumped it up!
    I"m so sad that Jalie only put out 2 clothing patterns! I really was expecting more. Boo. I like them both, but neither are showstoppers. Do you think you'll get either of them?

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    1. I'm a little disappointed. On the other hand, with having a daughter to sew for, "basic" patterns get a lot of mileage with me.

      I will definitely be getting the pull-on jeans. Between Eva and myself, I could see that pattern getting a lot of use. (You've already got your pull-on Gingers worked out, so I can see why you'd take a pass on that.)

      I'm really intrigued by the Tank/Dress with the pocket in back. I see that one having a lot of potential for versatility, as well.

      I like the fit-and-flare dress, too, although as others have pointed out, the flare on that one is drafted more like a drop-waist. That could look either really good or really bad on my short-waisted figure. (Would it elongate my torso or emphasize my high hip? Or both? No idea.) On the other hand, if that one was a wadder on me, it wouldn't be a total loss, given that I'd still get use out of the pattern for Eva.

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    2. I think the dress would look great on you! Princess seams are good (and I don't have any princess seam dresses like that, which means I'll buy it), and you could always shorten the torso if it's clinging, right? Just start the flaring sooner. I'm totally going to make some for my neice, too - looks like a great twirling skirt, and everyone deserves one of those! ;)

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  4. A really nice top and informative review! Double gauze sounds luscious. I have yet to get my hands on some:)

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    1. I've been seeing it pop up more and more around the SBC, and now I feel like I finally understand what all of the fuss is about.

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  5. Great top in a gorgeous colour. Double gauze is just lovely, isn't it? I have quite a lot and now just need the time to sew it. I will also now have a closer look at that pattern.

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    1. I'm pretty much now convinced that it's the perfect summer fabric.

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  6. I usually cringe at gauze because of its sponginess. The fabric you used sounds divine and, as you said, perfect for this pattern. Your top is great!

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  7. Lovely top and the colour is great on you. Goes beautifully with your trousers. I don't know why there are not more things from Hot Patterns out in the Blogosphere as they design some beautiful garments and their size range is spot on. Saying that I have three and have still not made them. :)

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  8. This is a great outfit and your color/print match is on point! Love this!

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  9. I think you nailed the pattern. Looks just like the cover. And it does great things for your bust. But I think for extra shaping I'd put in some back darts.

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  10. So Pretty! I had to Google what double gauze was....... it sounds divine for summer! Nice and floaty without worrying a breeze is going to be showing off too much skin! Does it crinkle badly?

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  11. What a perfect summer blouse! And it pairs perfectly with your pants. I'm in love with double gauze as well, but you know that! Perhaps as it becomes a more used fabric, we'll be able to find it for cheaper prices.

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  12. Very nice indeed. Love the colour on you.

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