Showing posts with label itch to stitch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label itch to stitch. Show all posts

Friday, December 11, 2015

This Week (and Last) in Patterns (aka Sweatshirtpalooza!) (11-Dec-2015)

If by any chance you were wondering about my absence last week, I had been knocked on my butt by the respiratory virus that's been going around. I could barely get out of bed, so writing any sort of blog post was out of the question. No post last week means that we've got twice as much ground to cover this week, and we have had quite a few new releases these past two weeks.

Late Breaking News:  Yes, I did see that the Early Spring (!) McCall's were published last night, but given that we didn't have a roundup post last week, I don't want to delay today's post to get them in. There's a bunch of re-hash-y prom dresses in this batch, but I did see a few cute everyday items from the one pass that I've made through the collection so far. We'll cover those next week.

Do you like interesting sweatshirts? I do. And if you do like sweatshirts, you should be pretty thrilled with these past two weeks because we've had FOUR different unique sweatshirt patterns released. We also had a lot of other things released, too. Here's the list of companies with new releases in the past two weeks:
  • Baste + Gather
  • Cashmerette
  • Colette Patterns
  • Colette Seamwork Magazine
  • HotPatterns
  • Itch to Stitch
  • Paprika Patterns
  • SBCC Patterns
  • StyleArc Patterns
Baste + Gather: Birkin Flares

After seeing many teaser pics on Instagram and a few related blog posts even, Lauren of Baste + Gather has finally released her flared jean pattern. Lauren's jeans are a high-waisted retro-style flare and have been getting a lot of positive comments from testers.

I like them, but I'd have to grade up a few sizes for these, plus, I somewhat recently bought flared jeans patterns from Burda and HotPatterns. (Although if StyleArc put out a flared jeans pattern, I'd snap it up in a heartbeat.)

Baste + Gather: Birkin Flares
Cashmerette Patterns: Washington Dress

My fellow Curvy Sewing Collective Editor Jenny from Cashmerette released her second pattern last week!  Like her first pattern, the Appleton dress, the Washington Dress is designed for curvy figures--up to a size 28 and with three sets of cup sizes: C/D, E/F, G/H. The Washington dress combines a knit top, stable knit hip yoke, and woven skirt to give lots of design and color-blocking possibilities.

I pattern tested this dress and have seen some of the tester photos. I won't show my tester version because I should have sized up (use your judgment as far as how comfortable you are with negative ease, when choosing a size), but I'll say that proportions and color-blocking choices are the key to getting a killer version of this dress. If you're looking to get a slimming hourglass shape out of this dress, you'll want to choose a hip yoke fabric that's darker in color--like a black or a navy. I made my tester version using a neoprene remnant for the skirt, and I really liked how the skirt portion came out, so if you're wondering about that, I say go for it!
Cashmerette - Washington dress

Colette Patterns: Phoebe Sheath Dress

Relatively soon after releasing the Wren knit surplice dress, Colette has released another pattern--this time a sheath dress with an A-line skirt.

My reaction? Meh. I appreciate the diversity of the models used for the photo shoot, but I don't feel like the dress fits or flatters the larger model all that well. In fact, if you click through to the product page, you can see that the gray sample has a bust dart (not shown in the line drawing) in addition to the princess seams. Why not just do a princess seam FBA to get a better fit? Also, for both models, why not extend that front panel all the way over to the princess seam? It just looks odd where it ends.

Colette - Phoebe dress
Colette Seamwork: December 2015 Issue

The theme for the December issue of Seamwork magazine is "Appreciation". I'm not entirely sure what that means, but it does include a mixed bag of two new patterns.

Seamwork: Brooklyn Skirt

Ok, THIS is the type of pattern that I had originally hoped would be included in Seamwork. It's a basic pattern but with an interesting attention getting detail: a half-circle skirt with a DEEP front pleat. I know that I've seen similar skirts pop up on Burda from time to time (and StyleArc also has a deep-pleat skirt in their catalog), but having the Colette version available saves you from having to hunt through Burda's dense online catalog or hunt down back issues of their magazine. So yeah, I like this skirt.
Colette Seamwork - Brooklyn skirt
Seamwork: York Blouse

The York is an unremarkable and inoffensive woven t-shirt-style blouse. It's got a boatneck and 3/4-length sleeves.

Most notable...I didn't get a screen shot in time, but the initial photos that were up for this blouse were BAD. The sample was badly sewn and the fit on the model was terrible--with bust darts that ended several inches below the actual bust of the model. I have giant droopy boobs, though, so maybe that would be a good sign for trying to fit myself?

Colette Seamwork - York Blouse

HotPatterns 1182: Athleisure Pretzel Sweatshirt

We've now reached the first (and probably my favorite) of the four new sweatshirt patterns that debuted in the past week. The Pretzel Sweatshirt features a twist hem in front and looks like the perfect cozy top to throw on over jeans. I can't wait to have this made up and hopefully join my Paprika Jasper (unblogged) and Blank Slate Denver comfy tops in near-constant wardrobe rotation.

HotPatterns - Pretzel sweatshirt
HotPatterns 1199: Fast & Fabulous Halcyon Sweatshirt

HotPatterns released a second sweatshirt pattern last week--the Halcyon sweatshirt. I like the deep v-neck and cross-over detail on this one. I'm not sure how I feel about the super dropped shoulder here, but again, this looks like a great layering piece on a cold, rainy day (like we've been having constantly for the past few weeks here in the PNW--I take back all of my complaints about a lack of rain)!

HotPatterns - Halcyon Sweatshirt
Itch to Stitch: Liana Stretch Jeans

Lost in some of the bigger name releases of the past two weeks, the relatively new but very prolific patternmaker Itch-to-Stitch released three new patterns for basics. The first of these is the Liana stretch jean, which have options for a straight, skinny, or flared leg. I think that these jeans are a fantastic idea--fit your crotch/butt area once, then swap in whatever leg you want to use. Honestly, I'm surprised that we're not hearing more buzz about these--the tester versions look good for the most part, and the size range for the pattern is fairly inclusive (better than the Birkin Flares).

Itch to Stitch - Liana stretch jeans
Itch to Stitch: Mila Shirt

The Mila shirt is one of those placket-style shirts that's been everywhere in RTW for the past few years. There are a few similar patterns out there (New Look 6474 comes to mind), but the Mila has classic shirt details and is geared more towards flannels and shirting, whereas the New Look and other similar patterns seem like they're more geared towards lightweight and/or sheer fabric. The Mila also has cup sizes up to DD, so that's a nice feature, too.

Itch to Stitch - Mila Shirt
Itch to Stitch: Irena Top

The third and final pattern in this batch is the Irena top: a knit pullover top meant for layering. I like the design of this one, but I'm not sure how well it would work on someone with a large bust. None of the tester photos that went out with the newsletter showed the top on anyone particularly busty, if I recall. So, this is a wait-and-see for me.

Itch to Stitch: Irena top
Paprika Patterns: Zircon Sweater/Dress

Following up last year's popular Jasper sweater/dress, Lisa from Paprika patterns has released another sweater/dress--this time without pockets but with an interesting inset yoke and hem detail. I think it's a pretty cool-looking sweatshirt; I love that yoke detail. My local JoAnn's (of all places) has a bunch of quilted knits and double-sided knits right now, which I think would be perfect for this.

Paprika Patterns - Zircon Sweater/Dress

SBCC Patterns: Brooklyn Hoodie

So, this is an interesting pattern. Betsy from SBCC wanted to take the oversized look that's currently in style, but draft this hoodie so that it would be proportionate with a petite woman's figure. It's got dropped shoulders and roomy at the chest, but more fitted through the sleeves and torso. I've had success with SBCC patterns, and I like the idea of this hoodie.
SBCC - Brooklyn hoodie
StyleArc: December 2015 Release

With the flood of other new patterns this month, StyleArc's December releases would be pretty easy to overlook. They're not bad, by any means, but we saw more interesting releases from some other companies, IMO. As they've been doing the past few months, if you order a paper pattern from StyleArc, you get a choice of a new pattern (the Maris top) or an older pattern (the Peta pant) as your freebie pattern for the month.

StyleArc: Kaye Tunic

It's a drapey tunic with drapey side pockets. It's fine, but there isn't much to say about it. Or maybe I'm just fatigued from going through so many patterns at this point.

StyleArc - Kaye Tunic

StyleArc: Maris Top (Freebie option)

It's a drapey top with design and color-blocking options.

StyleArc - Maris top




Final Thoughts

After barely having bought any patterns in the past few months, I went on a pattern buying binge these past two weeks.  Far too many patterns screamed "Layer up with me! I'm cozy and comfortable" while we've been mired in a really rainy stretch here in Seattle. (Hint: Most of the ones that I bought were sweatshirt patterns.)

Was there anything that you particularly loved or hated these past two weeks?


Sunday, September 6, 2015

Last Week in Patterns (6-Sept-2015)

I think that just about every indie pattern maker (and their hamsters) released a pattern this week, including two different collective groups that released new bundled collections.

Grab a mug of your favorite warm and caffeinated beverage because you'll be scrolling through this week's list for a while:
  • Colette's Seamwork Magazine
  • Deer & Doe
  • HotPatterns
  • Itch to Stitch
  • Named
  • Sew Independent
  • StyleArc
Colette Seamwork: September 2015 issue

Whereas I'd thought that the last couple of issues of Colette's Seamwork magazine were starting to show some promise for releasing some simple but somewhat interesting patterns, I find the two new September patterns to be fairly boring.

Akita top

The Akita top is a loose-fitting pullover blouse that only has one pattern piece (and no shoulder seams).  This is probably one of the few Seamwork patterns that lives up to its advertisement of being able to be made the time stated (in this case, one hour). It does have bust darts for shaping, but there's just not much more to say about this top.

Colette Seamwork - Akita
Moji pants

The Moji pants pattern is essentially the same woven track pants that we've seen offered by nearly every other indie pattern maker at this point. I'm sure that they're perfectly comfortable for lounging, but I only see these appealing to Seamwork subscribers who don't already own one of the many other comparable patterns out there.

Colette Seamwork - Moji pants

Deer & Doe: Fall/Winter 2015 patterns

Earlier this week, Deer & Doe announced a rebranding and the release of three new patterns for Fall/Winter 2015.

Deer & Doe: Arum Dress

In response to people requesting a "true beginner" pattern from Deer & Doe, Eléonore developed the Arum dress. It's a pull-on shift dress with cut-on sleeves and no closures. For shaping, the pattern has shoulder princess seams in back, rather than the ubiquitous bust dart/back fisheye dart combination that we've typically been seeing in this type of pattern.

It's not my cup of tea, but if you're a beginner who fits into Deer & Doe's somewhat limited size range, you could probably do far worse for your first shift dress.

Deer & Doe - Arum dress
Deer & Doe: Cardamome Dress

The Cardamome dress would probably just look silly on someone with my gigantiboobs, but I kind of like the idea behind it:  Inset shirt collar/bib on a simple elastic waist dress. I bet that we see some cute versions of this dress on a few sewing bloggers whose style aesthetic matches the dress's.

Deer & Doe - Cardamome Dress
Deer & Doe: Fumeterre Skirt

Probably my favorite pattern out of this bunch is the Femeterre maxi-skirt. Finally, a designer has acknowledged that maxi skirts can pair really nicely with tights and boots! I like that this multi-paneled skirt has the option of going either with a trouser fly-style opening or a button-up style. I was looking for a woven maxi-skirt pattern earlier this summer with some interesting details, and if this pattern had been available, I probably would have bought it and bit the bullet on grading it up a few sizes.

Deer & Doe - Fumeterre skirt
HotPatterns: 10th Anniversary releases

HotPatterns celebrated their 10th anniversary as an indie pattern company by releasing three new patterns on Friday.

HotPatterns: 1193 Classix Nouveau Everybody Loves the Sunshine Tops

First up is HotPatterns' updated version of their long-time best seller Sunshine Top. Trudy had solicited pre-orders for this a while back to test whether people were interested enough in an updated version of this now-OOP pattern to see if it would be worth updating and releasing. The pattern received enough pre-orders and is now available for sale.

HotPatterns - Everbody Loves the Sunshine Tops


HotPatterns: 1194 Fast & Fabulous Pull-on A-line Skirt

Another entry in HotPatterns popular Fast & Fabulous line, this skirt is exactly what the title describes: a pull-on A-line skirt. This one hits on a lot of current trends: midi-length, patch pockets, and a wide elastic waistband with a drawstring. Basically, this skirt is those popular track pants that are everywhere, but in a form where you're not embarrassed to leave the house wearing it.

HotPatterns - Pull-on A-line skirt
HotPatterns: 1195 Plain & Simple Scooter Jacket and Car Coat

This is a great little jacket and easy coat. The collar darts add bust shaping (per Trudy), and it's unlined (although for many of us, that means finishing our seam allowances with a binding, which isn't really any faster than adding a lining). The welt pockets are a nice detail, too.

HotPatterns Scooter Jacket & Car Coat

Itch to Stitch: Davina Dress

As far as I can tell, the Davina Dress is essentially the same dress as the BlueGingerDoll Violet dress without the Violet's pieced/colorblock detail and with a different skirt. The Davina also has a separate waistband piece and has pockets integrated into the skirt. (BTW--BlueGingerDoll's website appears to be back up and running again.)

I like this dress--these particular details and the shape of the dress tend to be flattering on me. Somewhere in the blog post announcement, Itch to Stitch also mentioned that the larger sizes are drafted for a D-cup bust (yay!), so there's that, too. (Yes, BGD also drafts for a D-cup bust.)

Itch to Stitch - Davina Dress
Named Clothing: Fall/Winter 2015 - New Black

On Tuesday, Named Clothing released their Fall/Winter collection for 2015, named "New Black". The collection contains 11 new patterns. Some of them are boring; some of them are interesting. I won't go over all 11 patterns in this post, which is already long enough as it is. Here are the more interesting patterns, in my opinion.

Isla Trench Coat

Sewing trenchcoats was all the rage in the online sewing community a few years ago, and while a trench coat is a classic style of garment, we haven't seen many new trench coat patterns in the past couple of years. The Isla has classic trench details but has a long, lower-calf length.

Named - Isla Trenchcoat
Esme Maxi-Cardigan

Remember the big cardigan-coat trend of the early 2000's? I'm seeing signs that it might be cycling back. I had a cardgian-coat like the Esme back around that time and wore the heck out of it. I have an OOP HotPattern that's similar to this one, so I'll probably stick with that, but I do like this.

Named - Esme Cardigan Coat
Mimosa Culottes

The Mimosas are one of the more wearable takes on the culotte trend that I've seen. The legs are voluminous and skirt-like, but the pleating at the waist/hips is kept to a minimum. These have pockets and a fly-front, too. If they came in a larger size range, I'd be tempted by these.

Named - Mimosa Culottes

Harriet Lumberjacket

The Harriet is a cross between a moto and a bomber jacket. It has some interesting details, including a sherpa/faux fur collar in the sample.

Named - Harriet Lumberjacket

Sew Independent: Bundle 2

Last month, Mari of Seamster Patterns and now Sew Independent helped release the inaugural bundle of Sew Independent sewing patterns--a bundle of women's sewing patterns from a variety of indie pattern makers. On Tuesday, Sew Independent released the second bundle in the series as part of the kick-off of "Sew Indie" month. Like the first bundle, the second bundle has tiered pricing, allowing you to choose how much you pay and to "unlock" additional patterns at different price points. As with last time, 20% of the proceeds will go to a women's charity.

Sew Independent - Bundle 2
Bundle 2 contains the following patterns:
  • Fehr Trade: VNA top
  • Maison Fleur: 6101- Fit and Flare skirt
  • Imagine Gnats: Bess Top, Tunic, and Dress
  • Closet Case Files: Nettie Dress and Bodysuit
  • SBCC: Pinot Pants
  • MIY Collection: Walkley Vest and Dress
  • Paprika Patterns: Jasper Sweater/Dress
  • Seamstress Erin: Nautilus Swimsuit
  • Kate & Rose: Kinga Skirt (New/Exclusive to bundle)
  • Soma Patterns: April 1962 Coat (New/Exclusive to bundle)
I was pretty tempted by the last bundle. This bundle...not so much. I already own the SBCC Pinot Pants and Paprika Jasper Sweater (both of which figure in my Autumn sewing plans), but nothing else really grabs me here. I like the swimsuit, but I'm not buying a swimsuit pattern in the waning days of summer here in the Northern Hemisphere. 

StyleArc: September 2015 release

StyleArc seems to finally have thrown a bone to us who aren't into the boxy styles that they've been releasing as of late! This month, if you order at least one paper pattern from StyleArc, you also get a choice between two freebie pattern options.

Tulip Dress and Skirt

First up is the Tulip Dress and Skirt. I love this! StyleArc (rightfully, IMO) gets knocked sometimes for releasing two views of what appears to be the same pattern as separate patterns, for example, releasing a top and dress version of similar garments separately, rather than including the top as a second view of the dress pattern. That criticism does not apply at all to the Tulip pattern, though, which includes two skirt and two dress views, all of which have shaping elements and are really cute, I think.  I like this pattern better than anything StyleArc has released in months.

StyleArc - Tulip Dress and Skirt

Edith Top (Freebie Option 1)

The Edith top is a variation on the pullover tops with plackets that we've seen so much of in the past few years. This pattern combines the layered look trend that we've been seeing, too. It's boxy, but I like the details on this one. If I were to place an order this month, the Edith is the freebie that I'd choose.

StyleArc - Edith top
Alexi Top (Freebie Option 2)

The other freebie option is a re-run of the Alexi turtleneck top that's been around for a while. I can't blame StyleArc for maybe wanting to get a bit more mileage out of an older pattern, especially one that's probably a nice basic for many women. Personally, with my short neck and giant boobs, I don't wear turtlenecks, but they work perfectly fine for others.

StyleArc - Alexi top

Final Thoughts


In a huge week of releases, the two standouts to me were the StyleArc Tulip Dress and the new HotPatterns jacket. In a less-busy week, I could see myself being tempted by the Itch-to-Stitch Davina dress, if only because I know that that particular style has a good chance of being flattering on me.

Next week should have some activity, as well, although I can't imagine that we'll have this scrolling list of new patterns. Grainline Studios is set to release a new pattern on the 7th--I know that many of us are always interested in seeing Jen's latest patterns.

Of this week's patterns, which interested you the most? Also, is it just me, or is this Indie Bundle a lot less tempting than the last bundle?

Sunday, July 12, 2015

Last Week in Patterns (12-July-2015)


This past week was a good week for pear-shaped sewists; however, I didn't feel that it was such a good week for my own figure or own personal style. We had releases this past week from the following companies:
  • HotPatterns
  • Itch to Stitch
  • Sewaholic
  • Vogue
HotPatterns: Fast & Fabulous Trilogy Shift Dress, Tunic, & Top

The Trilogy dress, tunic, and top appears to basically be HotPatterns take on the RTW trend that I'm sure inspired the True Bias Sutton blouse. I've been seeing similar blouses all over Seattle for the past few months, so it makes sense that multiple pattern companies would offer a take on this style. I already purchased the PDF for this (it's 20% off right now). I've nearly bought the Sutton several times, and since I'm familiar with and trust HotPatterns drafting, I figured this was a sign to finally pull the trigger on this one. I'm currently working on the mini-Southport for my daughter, but I've already prewashed fabric and will be making up the Trilogy top after that.

HotPatterns Trilogy Top, Tunic, and Dress

Itch to Stitch: Angelia Shorts

I don't follow Itch to Stitch all that closely. A few people have brought her patterns to my attention, but I'll be honest that I didn't really pay attention because I was a little turned off by the way she was putting calls out for pattern testers--they're done on a super tight deadline, which makes me question the thoroughness of the testing. Not to re-open the debate on pattern testing again, but I'm of a firm belief that pattern testing is something that you do to check the fit/grading on your patterns and/or the clarity of your instructions.  Outside of that, you're probably looking for someone to sew up your samples for you for free or for free marketing.

Anyway, I'm posting this because frankly, I really like these shorts. I love all of the details on the pockets, and I've been seeing some of these military-esque details on RTW shorts a lot lately. And as a fan of fly fronts, it's really nice to see a new-ish pattern designer offer a pattern with a fly front and not automatically fall back on a drawstring or elastic waist because it's easy.

I don't know if I'd buy these until I see some more reviews on women of larger sizes, but I definitely can see myself morphing some of these details onto a pattern that I already own.

Itch to Stitch: Angelia shorts
Itch to Stitch: Kathryn Top & Dress

Released at the same time as the Angelia shorts was the Kathryn knit top and dress. This top is so wrong for my figure, it's not even funny. Those pleats would open up and look horribly sloppy on my G-cups, not to even get into the bulk that they'd add. It looks okay on the slender, small-busted testers, though. Obviously, this one is a "hell no" from me.

Itch to Stich: Kathryn top and dress
Sewaholic: Harwood dress

The Harwood is one of those dresses that I like the idea of, but I think you need to be Sewaholic's target pear-shaped figure for it to look good. That closed-up neckline is the opposite of what I need for my upper body to avoid looking like one giant boob. The placement of this particular yoke and gathers could also potentially be problematic on a large bust.

On the other hand, if you're small-busted, I think that this dress could nicely balance out your figure, if that's something that you're looking for.

Basically, I like the design of this dress, but this one's not for me.

Sewaholic: Harwood dress

Sewaholic: Nicola dress

I had to laugh (in a good way) when I saw the blog post announcing the Nicola dress. Why did I laugh? I laughed because, as you'll see when I get a chance to blog it, I was just finishing up the very similar Blank Slate Marigold dress and was super happy with how that dress was turning out. A few of the details are a little different, but the basic idea is the same--a shirtdress with a shoulder yoke, shoulder shirring, elastic waist, and flared skirt.

So yeah, I like this a lot, but I have no need for it since I already own and have figured out the fit on the Marigold. I will say that although Tasia from Sewaholic drafts for a pear figure, I think that this dress is going to be a pretty flattering shape on a lot of women, pear figure or not. Those shoulder gathers are a convenient place to rotate a dart from an FBA. (I'll talk about my FBA in more detail in my Marigold post, but everything that I did FBA-wise for the Marigold will apply to the Nicola.)

Sewaholic: Nicola dress
Vogue: Fall 2015 Release

*sigh*  I must be one of the very few people in the SBC who didn't care a whole lot for this Vogue collection. There are very few patterns here that suit both my lifestyle and my figure. It figures--I loved the McCall's Fall Release (and have already bought 3 patterns from the collection), so I probably wasn't going to like any of the other Fall collections from the Big 4 nearly as much.

V1465: Donna Karan Jacket, Skirt, and Top

I like the jacket here, and the top and the skirt are okay, although I wouldn't wear a turtleneck. StyleArc has a few similar jackets, though, and I tend to trust StyleArc's drafting a bit more than most Big 4 drafting.

V1465
V1461: DKNY dress

The early 90's fashion revival, influenced by grunge and riot grrrl influences has been around for a few years at this point. It would figure that we'd start to see fashion influences from the mid-90's starting to show up in collections. This dress just screams "Clueless" to me.

"Sometimes you have to show a little skin. This reminds boys of being naked, and then they think of sex." --Cher Horowitz

V1461
V9124: Misses' Dress

If V1461 screamed Cher Horowitz, then V9124 screams Elaine Benes. Get out!

V9124

V9125: Misses' Dress

Nipple darts!

V9125

V9122: Very Easy Vogue Misses' Jumper

I wonder if these jumpers with the bias insets are expected to be a big thing for fall. McCall's had a variation on this in their fall catalogue.

V9122

Final Thoughts

First of all, I want to mention that a few of us Seattle-area sewing bloggers had a lovely meetup at Drygoods Designs here on Saturday. I even got a chance to meet my fellow CSC editor Jenny/Cashmerette in person! I'll try to pull a few pictures off of Instragram when I get a chance.

The only must-have for me here this week is the new HotPatterns top/tunic/dress, which I'll be sewing up soon. There are a few wait-and-see's, but that's just about it. I know that a lot of people really loved the new Vogues, but I felt that they were mostly kind of "meh". I guess I'm just more of a McCall's woman, when it comes to BMV. Were there any released this week that are on your must-have list?