Sunday, September 6, 2015

Last Week in Patterns (6-Sept-2015)

I think that just about every indie pattern maker (and their hamsters) released a pattern this week, including two different collective groups that released new bundled collections.

Grab a mug of your favorite warm and caffeinated beverage because you'll be scrolling through this week's list for a while:
  • Colette's Seamwork Magazine
  • Deer & Doe
  • HotPatterns
  • Itch to Stitch
  • Named
  • Sew Independent
  • StyleArc
Colette Seamwork: September 2015 issue

Whereas I'd thought that the last couple of issues of Colette's Seamwork magazine were starting to show some promise for releasing some simple but somewhat interesting patterns, I find the two new September patterns to be fairly boring.

Akita top

The Akita top is a loose-fitting pullover blouse that only has one pattern piece (and no shoulder seams).  This is probably one of the few Seamwork patterns that lives up to its advertisement of being able to be made the time stated (in this case, one hour). It does have bust darts for shaping, but there's just not much more to say about this top.

Colette Seamwork - Akita
Moji pants

The Moji pants pattern is essentially the same woven track pants that we've seen offered by nearly every other indie pattern maker at this point. I'm sure that they're perfectly comfortable for lounging, but I only see these appealing to Seamwork subscribers who don't already own one of the many other comparable patterns out there.

Colette Seamwork - Moji pants

Deer & Doe: Fall/Winter 2015 patterns

Earlier this week, Deer & Doe announced a rebranding and the release of three new patterns for Fall/Winter 2015.

Deer & Doe: Arum Dress

In response to people requesting a "true beginner" pattern from Deer & Doe, Eléonore developed the Arum dress. It's a pull-on shift dress with cut-on sleeves and no closures. For shaping, the pattern has shoulder princess seams in back, rather than the ubiquitous bust dart/back fisheye dart combination that we've typically been seeing in this type of pattern.

It's not my cup of tea, but if you're a beginner who fits into Deer & Doe's somewhat limited size range, you could probably do far worse for your first shift dress.

Deer & Doe - Arum dress
Deer & Doe: Cardamome Dress

The Cardamome dress would probably just look silly on someone with my gigantiboobs, but I kind of like the idea behind it:  Inset shirt collar/bib on a simple elastic waist dress. I bet that we see some cute versions of this dress on a few sewing bloggers whose style aesthetic matches the dress's.

Deer & Doe - Cardamome Dress
Deer & Doe: Fumeterre Skirt

Probably my favorite pattern out of this bunch is the Femeterre maxi-skirt. Finally, a designer has acknowledged that maxi skirts can pair really nicely with tights and boots! I like that this multi-paneled skirt has the option of going either with a trouser fly-style opening or a button-up style. I was looking for a woven maxi-skirt pattern earlier this summer with some interesting details, and if this pattern had been available, I probably would have bought it and bit the bullet on grading it up a few sizes.

Deer & Doe - Fumeterre skirt
HotPatterns: 10th Anniversary releases

HotPatterns celebrated their 10th anniversary as an indie pattern company by releasing three new patterns on Friday.

HotPatterns: 1193 Classix Nouveau Everybody Loves the Sunshine Tops

First up is HotPatterns' updated version of their long-time best seller Sunshine Top. Trudy had solicited pre-orders for this a while back to test whether people were interested enough in an updated version of this now-OOP pattern to see if it would be worth updating and releasing. The pattern received enough pre-orders and is now available for sale.

HotPatterns - Everbody Loves the Sunshine Tops

HotPatterns: 1194 Fast & Fabulous Pull-on A-line Skirt

Another entry in HotPatterns popular Fast & Fabulous line, this skirt is exactly what the title describes: a pull-on A-line skirt. This one hits on a lot of current trends: midi-length, patch pockets, and a wide elastic waistband with a drawstring. Basically, this skirt is those popular track pants that are everywhere, but in a form where you're not embarrassed to leave the house wearing it.

HotPatterns - Pull-on A-line skirt
HotPatterns: 1195 Plain & Simple Scooter Jacket and Car Coat

This is a great little jacket and easy coat. The collar darts add bust shaping (per Trudy), and it's unlined (although for many of us, that means finishing our seam allowances with a binding, which isn't really any faster than adding a lining). The welt pockets are a nice detail, too.

HotPatterns Scooter Jacket & Car Coat

Itch to Stitch: Davina Dress

As far as I can tell, the Davina Dress is essentially the same dress as the BlueGingerDoll Violet dress without the Violet's pieced/colorblock detail and with a different skirt. The Davina also has a separate waistband piece and has pockets integrated into the skirt. (BTW--BlueGingerDoll's website appears to be back up and running again.)

I like this dress--these particular details and the shape of the dress tend to be flattering on me. Somewhere in the blog post announcement, Itch to Stitch also mentioned that the larger sizes are drafted for a D-cup bust (yay!), so there's that, too. (Yes, BGD also drafts for a D-cup bust.)

Itch to Stitch - Davina Dress
Named Clothing: Fall/Winter 2015 - New Black

On Tuesday, Named Clothing released their Fall/Winter collection for 2015, named "New Black". The collection contains 11 new patterns. Some of them are boring; some of them are interesting. I won't go over all 11 patterns in this post, which is already long enough as it is. Here are the more interesting patterns, in my opinion.

Isla Trench Coat

Sewing trenchcoats was all the rage in the online sewing community a few years ago, and while a trench coat is a classic style of garment, we haven't seen many new trench coat patterns in the past couple of years. The Isla has classic trench details but has a long, lower-calf length.

Named - Isla Trenchcoat
Esme Maxi-Cardigan

Remember the big cardigan-coat trend of the early 2000's? I'm seeing signs that it might be cycling back. I had a cardgian-coat like the Esme back around that time and wore the heck out of it. I have an OOP HotPattern that's similar to this one, so I'll probably stick with that, but I do like this.

Named - Esme Cardigan Coat
Mimosa Culottes

The Mimosas are one of the more wearable takes on the culotte trend that I've seen. The legs are voluminous and skirt-like, but the pleating at the waist/hips is kept to a minimum. These have pockets and a fly-front, too. If they came in a larger size range, I'd be tempted by these.

Named - Mimosa Culottes

Harriet Lumberjacket

The Harriet is a cross between a moto and a bomber jacket. It has some interesting details, including a sherpa/faux fur collar in the sample.

Named - Harriet Lumberjacket

Sew Independent: Bundle 2

Last month, Mari of Seamster Patterns and now Sew Independent helped release the inaugural bundle of Sew Independent sewing patterns--a bundle of women's sewing patterns from a variety of indie pattern makers. On Tuesday, Sew Independent released the second bundle in the series as part of the kick-off of "Sew Indie" month. Like the first bundle, the second bundle has tiered pricing, allowing you to choose how much you pay and to "unlock" additional patterns at different price points. As with last time, 20% of the proceeds will go to a women's charity.

Sew Independent - Bundle 2
Bundle 2 contains the following patterns:
  • Fehr Trade: VNA top
  • Maison Fleur: 6101- Fit and Flare skirt
  • Imagine Gnats: Bess Top, Tunic, and Dress
  • Closet Case Files: Nettie Dress and Bodysuit
  • SBCC: Pinot Pants
  • MIY Collection: Walkley Vest and Dress
  • Paprika Patterns: Jasper Sweater/Dress
  • Seamstress Erin: Nautilus Swimsuit
  • Kate & Rose: Kinga Skirt (New/Exclusive to bundle)
  • Soma Patterns: April 1962 Coat (New/Exclusive to bundle)
I was pretty tempted by the last bundle. This bundle...not so much. I already own the SBCC Pinot Pants and Paprika Jasper Sweater (both of which figure in my Autumn sewing plans), but nothing else really grabs me here. I like the swimsuit, but I'm not buying a swimsuit pattern in the waning days of summer here in the Northern Hemisphere. 

StyleArc: September 2015 release

StyleArc seems to finally have thrown a bone to us who aren't into the boxy styles that they've been releasing as of late! This month, if you order at least one paper pattern from StyleArc, you also get a choice between two freebie pattern options.

Tulip Dress and Skirt

First up is the Tulip Dress and Skirt. I love this! StyleArc (rightfully, IMO) gets knocked sometimes for releasing two views of what appears to be the same pattern as separate patterns, for example, releasing a top and dress version of similar garments separately, rather than including the top as a second view of the dress pattern. That criticism does not apply at all to the Tulip pattern, though, which includes two skirt and two dress views, all of which have shaping elements and are really cute, I think.  I like this pattern better than anything StyleArc has released in months.

StyleArc - Tulip Dress and Skirt

Edith Top (Freebie Option 1)

The Edith top is a variation on the pullover tops with plackets that we've seen so much of in the past few years. This pattern combines the layered look trend that we've been seeing, too. It's boxy, but I like the details on this one. If I were to place an order this month, the Edith is the freebie that I'd choose.

StyleArc - Edith top
Alexi Top (Freebie Option 2)

The other freebie option is a re-run of the Alexi turtleneck top that's been around for a while. I can't blame StyleArc for maybe wanting to get a bit more mileage out of an older pattern, especially one that's probably a nice basic for many women. Personally, with my short neck and giant boobs, I don't wear turtlenecks, but they work perfectly fine for others.

StyleArc - Alexi top

Final Thoughts

In a huge week of releases, the two standouts to me were the StyleArc Tulip Dress and the new HotPatterns jacket. In a less-busy week, I could see myself being tempted by the Itch-to-Stitch Davina dress, if only because I know that that particular style has a good chance of being flattering on me.

Next week should have some activity, as well, although I can't imagine that we'll have this scrolling list of new patterns. Grainline Studios is set to release a new pattern on the 7th--I know that many of us are always interested in seeing Jen's latest patterns.

Of this week's patterns, which interested you the most? Also, is it just me, or is this Indie Bundle a lot less tempting than the last bundle?


  1. The rush of pattern releases in anticipation of fall is fun, even if most of them don't suit my particular tastes. I'm also a knitter and there are a bunch of knitting collections coming out right now, so it's double the fun. As far as this bunch of patterns goes, I also like the HP jacket and I'll be getting the updated version of the Sunshine top since I didn't get it the first time around. Definitely looking forward to see what the new Grainline pattern is.

    1. Same here! Her last two releases have been a coat and a blazer, so I'd think that whatever the next one is, it'll probably be something more simple, along the lines of the Linden.

  2. I like the Cardamome dress style, but am not really a fan of elasticized waists, also really like the maxi skirt, but it's not really something I wear a lot of!

  3. Thanks for the weekly round up....I look forward to it each week!

  4. That's it - I need that Hot Patterns coat! I've been looking for a similar pattern available in a PDF, and it looks like a winner. What should I know before sewing my first HP pattern? I started looking at the other patterns, and a few caught my attention, but I couldn't find reviews of them online. Help!

    1. I'd recommend joining the HotPatterns facebook group--Trudy is very helpful with fitting questions, etc, on there. They do tend to run large sometimes--usually when something is described as a "relaxed fit", so there's that to keep in mind when choosing your initial size. Also keep in mind that the larger sizes are drafted for a larger cup size, so knowing your figure type, you *might* be able to go down a size or two.

    2. Excellent! That's exactly the kind of stuff that's useful to know about a new pattern company! Thanks!

  5. I'm loving the Cardamome dress and the Tulip dress :) About to order the Cardamome, in fact - elastic waists aren't usually my style but the bib front is pretty and I'm curious to see if I'll like the style once I've made it up.

    1. Depending on how the elastic waist is done, they can be less obtrusive in some styles than others. If I had any hope of it looking reasonably flattering on me, I'd be seriously tempted by the Cardamome.

  6. The Tulip and Edith are on their way to me!!! My first ever SA paper patterns! I am so excited to sew that tulip skirt - so excited!

    I liked the Deer & Doe patterns a lot. That bibbed pattern reminds me of one of the new McCall's which I fell in love with and purchased.

    The Named Harriet is really cute. I like the trench but would probably just go Burda for a trench. And I LOVE that HP jacket! SO ccute!

    1. I think I've placed one paper pattern order from StyleArc in the past year (mostly going the PDF route now), but I'm really tempted this month--just to get those two patterns.

    2. I'm really excited about StyleArc putting their patterns on Amazon prime (which is just how about how I get everything else in my life), I know its just a limited debut, but it looks like its successful, so I'm going to hold out hope they put all their patterns out there since not only do you get great shipping but its the entire size range! So when they put the tulip dress on there its mine.

  7. The Named Mimosa culottes look like a riding skirt - i love that type of romantic silhouette. That Lumberjacket is a great piece, tho no way i'm taking on that type of project right now!

    I can't believe no one is calling out the styling on the Isla trench coat - to me it screams 'just running down to the corner store for a quart of milk and don't want to get dressed'.

    Which is one of the main functions of a trench, really - well done Named!

    1. Yes! They do look like a riding skirt. That's probably why I like them.

      Heh. And good call on the Isla trench!

  8. "Gigantiboobs" is officially a part of my vocabulary. LOL

    I am experiencing Indie overload. There are so many new patterns/companies that I can't keep up.

    I'm disappointed in Colette. When they first came out, I bought almost all of their patterns. Nothing they've released in the last two or three years sparked any interest. Seamwork? No.

    1. I'm so with you on Colette. I gave them the benefit of the doubt with the Zinnia and Laurel, thinking they were filling out holes in their offerings, but it seems like they're really just focused on basic, beginner patterns now.

      I had really hoped that they'd do what they said they'd do when they started Seamwork--use Seamwork for basic patterns, but release more advanced/detailed patterns as their regular releases. They've released, what, two non-Seamwork patterns in the past year? And one of those has been very basic--the Aster, and the other (the Dahlia) has major fit/drafting issues. I miss the old Colette.

  9. If I could have one pattern its the Fumeterre skirt. It looks versatile and elegant.

  10. I LOVE the Fumeterre skirt. It reminds me a lot of a skirt I inherited from my mother. I wore it so much in university, even as I got bigger, until I was wearing it with the top two buttons undone. My sister has it now. I'm trying to work out if it will be easier to buy the pattern and grade up, or just draft it myself, referencing the original skirt. It was denim and it had these huge pockets set in to one of the gores. Perfect.

    I was going to buy the first sewing indie bundle but it was over by the time I heard about it! I also found it quite frustrating that they don't link to the originals, and there were a few in the first bundle with no line drawings, so it was hard to gauge what I was getting. I see they've improved that with this bundle, it's much easier to see what's what. I won't be buying it - I already have two of the patterns, and of the rest would only sew a couple more so it's not worth it. I always like the idea of the bundles but they rarely work for me, I guess maybe my taste is too specific? And I'm too likely to already own a pattern!

  11. Oh so many patterns, so little time! There are lots of nice patterns in here, but I think I'll just go with the Hot Patterns jacket. For now! Thank you, always, for posting the newest patterns . I look forward to all of your posts :)

  12. Nothing really speaks to me here but I have not been sewing much lately and have a large pattern collection so that's not really shocking I guess.