This past week wasn't quite as crazy as the previous week, but we did have a fair amount of activity in pattern-land:
- BurdaStyle
- Colette/Seamwork
- Grainline Studios
- StyleArc
- Victory Patterns
The new batch of BurdaStyle envelope patterns was released this week. Unlike the magazine and download patterns, BurdaStyle envelope patterns include seam allowances (at least in North America) and comprehensive instructions. If you're curious about trying Burda but are intimated by having to trace, add seam allowances, or wanting decent instructions, I recommend trying a BurdaStyle envelope pattern. In any case, there were a few interesting offerings in this batch, and it might just be my perception, but it seems like they're relying less on re-issuing magazine patterns as envelope patterns with this release.
Burda 6744
Sized for petites, this multi-princess-seamed fit-and-flare dress offers a lot of options for fitting. The godets give an impression that this is a pleated skirt at first glance, but it's not. So, you get the look of pleats, but without the bulk over the tummy or bum area.
 |
| Burda 6744 |
For the first time that I can remember, Burda is offering a few Plus patterns as part of its junior's line, Burda Young. I think that this is fantastic, given that at the Curvy Sewing Collective, we're frequently asked for recommendations for youthful, Plus patterns. I think that these would be a great place to start for many plus sized young women who are new to sewing or who have loved ones sewing for them.
Burda 6717
 |
| Burda 6717 |
 |
| Burda 6716 |
Burda 6748
In the misses' Plus offerings, there's an interesting-looking coat/dress pattern with a front zip. Of course, if my husband saw this, he'd make an "easy access" joke.
 |
| Burda 6748 |
Finally, my favorite pattern out of this batch, and one that I'll definitely buy when it's on sale, is this blouse and shirtdress pattern. I love the neckline on this, and those darts will provide plenty of shaping.
 |
| Burda 6713 |
Thursday, Sarai announced on the Colette Blog that she's gotten in touch with her inner Marc Maron (beyond both being cat people) and has a podcast in the works. The podcast will be focused on various topics related to garment sewing.
On one hand, I enjoy listening to podcasts on my headphones at work, and love the idea of one focused on garment sewing. (I don't know of any other podcasts with that focus off the top of my head, but maybe I'm missing something?)
On the other hand, I'm hoping that this doesn't continue to stretch Sarai/Colette any more than they already appear to be with their monthly Seamwork releases. They've only released two "regular" patterns in the past 12 months at this point. I know that I sound like a broken record here, but I miss the old Colette.
I will say, though, if Sarai is diverting her attention away from patterns at this point, a podcast, which I can passively listen to while at work, is much more appealing to me than reading Seamwork magazine, which I generally haven't been reading very much.
Grainline Studios: Lark Tee
So...the new Grainline pattern turns out to be a tee pattern. This isn't a huge surprise, since this is what Jen was hinting at in social media.
Personally, I don't have a need for another t-shirt pattern--the SBCC Tonic Tee is my go-to t-shirt pattern, and when I make a t-shirt, I use that pattern as the base and alter from there. But, Grainline has a reputation for good drafting and good instructions, so if you don't have a TNT t-shirt pattern already, the Lark is possibly worth a shot. I can't fault Jen for filling out a hole in her pattern offerings, either, when nearly every other indie offers a basic t-shirt. The Lark also offers pretty much every possible neckline and sleeve option that you could want.
Lauren of Baste + Gather wrote a really interesting and thoughtful post about the mixed social media reaction to the release of the Lark tee and on "fangirls". It's worth a read:
Do we really need another t-shirt pattern?
Anyway, here's the Lark tee:
 |
| Grainline Studios - Lark Tee |
StyleArc: September Designer Release
StyleArc continues to release patterns at a fast pace. Just after releasing two new patterns on the first of the month, they've released two more this past week.
Daisy Designer Pant
The Daisy Designer Pant is a woven pull-on pant that celebrates the return of wider-legged pants. It has feature pockets and wide hem bands. These look stylish and comfortable, and if I didn't already have similar patterns, I might be tempted.
 |
| StyleArc - Daisy Pant |
The Daisy Designer Tunic has optional inseam pockets and an on-trend double hem. This tunic isn't really my style, but I do like it. It looks really stylish in the sample photos, where it appears to be made up in a white linen.
 |
| StyleArc - Daisy Tunic |
Seemingly dormant indie pattern designer Victory patterns resurfaced recently with a book announcement and and a promise of upcoming patterns (along with a request for pattern testers). Earlier this week, Victory posted a link to the online lookbook for their new book, which is called Boundless Style:
Boundless Style Lookbook
The book's format will be similar to Tanya Wheelan's recent Sew Many Dress book, where a sewist will be able to design her dress patterns by mixing-and-matching different bodice, skirt, and sleeve elements. However, Victory's aesthetic is very different from Tanya Wheelan's, so I don't see much overlap between the two books.
There's also a lookbook online app, that lets you play around with mixing and matching the different design elements yourself:
Boundless Style Lookbook App
I love the idea of the app and had some fun playing around with it a few days ago. Most of the designs aren't really my style (I gravitate much more towards Tanya Wheelan's style), so I probably won't buy the book unless I see some dresses made up in the SBC that compel me to purchase it. I do really love the mix-and-match concept of these two recent books, and I wouldn't exactly cry if this is a trend that we start seeing from other pattern designers with book deals.
The lookbooks aren't my thing. Colette has never appealed but there does seem to be lots of chatter about the company. What is the new focus? Is it pattern making or sewing lifestyle ____fillintheblank)____ something?
ReplyDeleteThere is one Burda envelope pattern that I want (6694). I love the view with the notched neckline. I do like the top/dress pattern you highlighted above too!
The Lark? Eh. I have found love in my $1.99 McCalls 6964 so I won't buy it. But it IS smart of her, no matter what anyone says. Having a basic is pretty much necessary. I mean, look at how many have sewn and are stil sewing the Renfrew, the Maria Denmark kimono tee, the plantain, the SBCC tee...
Style Arc has their basic tee and I was just about to bite on the In House Jenny because of cup sizing.
Grainline differentiated by giving it all in one envelope; several sleeve options, different necklines, etc.
Some of us (okay fine...I'm talking about myself!) are into the sewing and not drafting or playing around with the lines of a pattern. I'm just flat out not going to change a crew neck to a scoop or a scoop to a V. I won't...I'll get a different pattern. And she's done the work for you (or me...as it were) :)
I do agree that it's not necessarily "just another tee" pattern because it's one of the few that has ALL of the neckline styles and sleeve options in one pattern. I can go either way on hacking the options that I want in a pattern--sometimes I don't want to deal with fitting a new pattern and would rather hack the details, and other times I don't want to deal with the hacking part, and just buy a second (or third) pattern.
DeleteI already have Pamela's T Shirt pattern and her add on with all the necklines. It has a dart, different sleeve lengths etc. And if I don't want a dart, I have an old Kwik Sew and of course the Marcy Tilton one that is a bit more jazzed up as well as the HP patterns which fit me pretty well without much in the way of alteration. I have too many patterns.
DeleteI am tempted by the Lark only because of the different options. I too don't want to bother with drafting all the time, especially for a t-shirt.
ReplyDeleteHowever, all of the other Grainline patterns I've tried looked terrible on me. So I probably won't buy it.
I like Victory patterns. Although they're not my style, at least they stand out in the sea of sameness that has become the SBC. I'm looking forward to their new offerings.
I agree with you on Victory standing out among the crowd. And I'd thought that they were fairly successful (at some point, sales figures for the Lola got published in an article about the new wave of sewing, and they were pretty impressive). I was kind of surprised when they went dormant.
DeleteI could be swayed on the book depending on how the patterns look when other people make them up. I love the concept, at least.
She moved to Oz with her husband and was working on the book - I think that's why Victory when dormant! She came to our first Toronto meet-up, and was super lovely (both kind and rather stunningly pretty)!
DeleteI'm tempted by lark bc I really like some of the neck options but I want to play with the tee in gerties book first. I too can be a bit lazy about drafting though so we will see.
ReplyDeleteI'm excited about the podcast. I like to listen to them while I'm driving around. I have so many fit issues with Collette patterns that I have sworn them off. I don't mind some alterations but the are just so different from my body type that its not worth my time
I have one Victory pattern and like it so much. Need to bust it out and make some comfy knit fall dresses. Whenever I finish my current project that is.
I bought the Victory Lola a while back, but I never made it, and then Paprika came out with the Jasper, which seemed a little more suited for my body type (I also tested the Jasper).
DeleteThe more that I think about the podcast, the more I'm weirdly excited about it. Knowing Sarai, I could see it being like a This American Life, but sewing themed. I love that idea.
Man, I must be out of the loop. Even though I chat with Jen from Grainline plenty on social media, I apparently missed ALL of her hints about the new pattern or release dates... Or maybe I'm just forgetful! ;) It's not a pattern I'll buy because I like looser tops around my sizable middle... but I think she included good value with all those options and it looks very RTW, like all her patterns!
ReplyDeleteShe had the release date in a blog post a while back, and then also mentioned in several places that she was going to have a multi-size version of that free Hemlock tee for sale, so that's why I think everyone was pretty sure that her next release would be a tee.
DeleteLike everyone else who follows her on social media, I want a pattern for that quilted jacket that she's working on!
I can't decide if I really want a pattern for that jacket or just want it because it seems really cool. Would I wear it Would it flatter? Who knows! :)
DeleteGet thyself to Joann, stat! Burda is on sale (2.49) through Saturday. I lost my mind (up in there) with the sale and the new releases.
ReplyDeleteUgh Colette. I just can't. I think they're selling a lifestyle or something. The focus has definitely shifted to simple projects with, perhaps, the intent on encouraging people to sew. It reminds me of complaints a few years ago about Threads magazine appearing to focus on simple projects. Being new to sewing at the time, I wasn't upset at the alleged direction Threads took. However, now that I've been sewing for at least ten years, I understand the frustration some may have felt. I don't follow Colette for this reason.
I didn't make it to JoAnn's in time. :( They'll have another Burda sale at some point, though.
DeleteYeah, I know that there's the GOMI theory that Sarai is trying to become the next Martha Stewart. I'm not sure that I buy that, if only because it seems like these new ventures still all revolve around sewing in some way. She does seem to be trying to find a way to continue to build on her brand beyond traditional avenues, though. I'm wondering if a better analogy would be that she's looking to become to sewing what Rachel Ray is to cooking (and I mean that in several ways).
Maybe she is looking for a broadcasting contract with one of the lifestyle channels.-- like an It's So Easy deal. If that is the case, she should get going on Youtube or something. Peggy Sagers has a good PBS show and that is pretty much how she made it happen-- she built an audience without a cute blog. But then Peggy has her bonafides.
DeleteI already have a T-shirt TNT and Grainline patterns don't suit my figure. I really appreciate Victory pattern designs. Kristian is more like a fashion designer than a pattern designer. Sometimes all this "wearable basics" stuff gets boring, or the other alternative - copying RTW. It is nice to have a pattern designer with a unique vision.
ReplyDeleteI agree that it's nice to see someone with a fairly unique vision. Outside of the Onyx tee (and even that has some nice detail options), Lisa from Paprika also seems to have a pretty unique vision within the indie pattern world.
DeleteI just found your blog a couple of days ago, and I love your This Week in Patterns posts. Love.
ReplyDeleteI like the Lark too, but like everyone else, I have a favorite t-shirt pattern too, mine is Sewaholic's Renfrew, the cowl neck version alone is worth the price of the pattern.
Thanks! And welcome!
DeleteI like B6744 and 6748, though I won't be purchasing, as I need to sew up the many patterns I bought last month. I don't often like Burda, so nice to see some tempting offerings. I really appreciate your links to thoughtful blog posts on the indie scene Michelle. I don't read the range of blogs that you do, but love to get links to interesting posts I would not otherwise have seen, I'm curious as to why there are so few blogposts in the SBC on some new patterns I thought would be very successful - Cake Endeavour trousers and Sewaholic Nicola. Is it that these patterns may appeal more to a group which isn't blogging so much any more?
ReplyDeleteI"m always curious about why some patterns don't make a splash too! I think wide leg trousers are a hard sell... but I expected the two Sewaholic dresses to get made more!
DeleteI've wondered about those two patterns, too. Steph/Cake was supposed to have a big sewalong for the Endeavors, but she seems to have dropped back off the map again. I wouldn't be surprised if she's dealing with her health problems again.
DeleteThe Nicola, on the other hand, is more of a head-scratcher. Sewaholic is probably one of the most popular indie companies, and the Nicola is a style that could be worn by women outside of Sewaholic's target audience. Plus, people seemed to really like it when it was announced. (The Harwood, on the other hand, is probably more limited to pear-figures, from a flattery standpoint.) Granted, Tasia didn't seem to do much of a marketing push for either of those patterns after they were released. No sewalongs, etc.
I purchased the Endeavors but have not made them up yet. After viewing fashion weeks offerings (and still viewing) those wide legged pants with the button placement are very on trend so that is a head scratcher. The Nicola is just very similar to many dresses that are already on the pattern market- I just don't see anything really novel about it. I generally don't purchase Sewholic because I am not a pear shape.
DeleteThe Burda looks cool. I think I'd go for that one too. I have a weakness for raglan seaming.
ReplyDeleteActually, I am most interest in Burda a 6719, the men's jogging pants. So hard to find basic, but current men's patterns.
ReplyDeleteThat's a great call. I don't sew for my husband much these days, but you're totally right that sewing patterns haven't really kept up with trends for men's lounge/jogger pants.
Deletelove your pattern roundup posts. thanks for doing them. Grainline tee - I can understand why a designer would have such a pattern but it does seem so unoriginal. I have never found anything compelling about Grainline and often the samples shown on the site look either badly fitting or stripes/plaids not done well. My favorite t-shirt pattern is the Jalie top which includes v-neck, round neck, and turtleneck plus sizing for tiny child through women's size. talk about value!
ReplyDeletelove that Burda 6713, buying that one soon. a new take on a women's shirt. I only buy patterns these days that have a new detail I have never seen. I think people overlook the Burda envelope patterns but I have had such good luck with them at all size ranges, especially using the plus patterns for other people. as for the Colette podcast - that website puts me to sleep so I think the podcast would be a hazard for me :) too snoozy.
I really love that Burda. That one will be mine once my JoAnn's actually has them in and has a sale (or during the occasional sale that PR runs).
DeleteIt's really hard to see the details in most of the Burda envelope patterns, and the Simplicity site is awful to use. I find myself browsing PR just to see the line drawings for Burda envelope patterns.
I love the pattern round ups too!! I bought Burda 6717 even though I'm not in the plus size range. I really liked it and figured it'd be easy enough to size down. For anyone interested in that one, it's really a skirt with multiple panels that you stitch together. There aren't any pleats involved. I'm looking forward to trying it once the right fabric comes along.
ReplyDeleteThat one caught my eye, too. I have the Paprika Jade skirt and was wondering if the Burda was too similar, but if it's pieced panels, they're constructed completely differently. (The Jade is pleated.)
DeleteI love reading the pattern round-up. I am such a dress person and I like the look book. There are bodices and skirts I would make, so it's going on my wishlist. I am a little sad her sizes only just fit me though :(
ReplyDeleteIf you really like the styles and are at the top of or just outside of the size range, you could always play around with grading up slightly or even seeing what kind of fit you get by just adding a bit to the seam allowances and sewing up a muslin.
DeleteI am planning to do that with her Chloe dress. It's my behind and hips that are the problem... Sigh... So I can get away with most flared skirts, but straight skirts not so much...
DeleteI totally get why Grainline did a layering tee. It fits her pattern line. I don't care how many t shirt patterns there are, what a person needs is the one, the one that fits you right with the right neckline. For me that is a v neck and scoop that aren't too low and a prefect crew.For me, this is a major issue with so many patterns, necklines that are too low. With that said, I have a TNT t shirt pattern I made from a RTW. This process is extremely easy to do but I get that some people just are not going to do that. I would buy either Grainline's or Jalie's t shirt patterns. The Look book is not my style. I would say that many many pattern offerings are just not my jam or don't suit my lifestyle. You will find me in jeans, tees, button ups, casual skirts, dresses or outdoor wear.
ReplyDeleteFor me, Lark is a nay. (1) I have TNT tees; (2) it's not really "drafting" to redraw a neckline shape (although I understand why some just want to cut and sew and not draw; (3) I'm not impressed with the fit on (is that Jen?) the model. I like higher armholes. Easy enough to adjust but see (1) above so no wheel reinventing here.
ReplyDeleteI LOVE the Burda curvy-seamed pencil skirt. I'm not sure if the "sagginess" of some of the seams is a design feature or the fabric misbehaving, but I like that look so I hope it's a design feature. This is one where I *could* probably just chop up a tracing of my Magic Pencil but if I can buy the Burda for $3.50 at Joann's, I probably will. That is, if I EVER sew again. The withdrawal is killing me.
Re the Baste & Gather blog post. Interesting read in a trainwreck sort of way. I'm so NOT a fan girl/crowd-follower. Never have been, in anything.
Re Colette Conquers The World (joke!). I'm obviously so far removed from Sarai's demographic that my voice will never count and that's OK. But from the outside looking in ... it just seems to me that she/the company are becoming more and more Jack of All, Master of None. Sad.
Again, thanks for the round-up, your thoughts, and the conversation.
(Loved your cat's face while donning the hair net BTW!!)
You know the difference when you try on a pair of pants from Walmart and another high end pair from Nordstrom? The pair from Walmart won't have the same "cut" (is that what you mean by drafting?) You feel comfy and slimmer in the high end pair even without having them altered.
ReplyDeleteThat's why I'm always up for a new basic pattern. Even if I have a great one, I recognize that every few years suble design differences also emerge - maybe a boxier fit, etc.