Friday, October 9, 2015

This Week in Patterns (9-Oct-2015)

Friday roundup time! Lots of new patterns this week! We've got new releases from the following pattern companies:
  • BurdaStyle (Plus)
  • Cashmerette 
  • HotPatterns
  • StyleArc
  • Tilly and the Buttons
  • True Bias
BurdaStyle (Plus): October 2015 collection (Evening Elegance)

Although I missed the announcement, at some point in the past week or so, BurdaStyle published the Plus collection from the October 2015 issue to the US website. I didn't have time to do a rundown on the individual patterns, but it's a nice collection of formal and semi-formal patterns. I've been nicely encouraged by the Plus collections in the past few issues of BurdaStyle; they seem to be getting back on track with including nicely detailed patterns with shaping in their plus styles.

BurdaStyle Plus - Evening elegance collection
Cashmerette: Appleton Wrap Dress

I can finally talk about this!  As you all probably already know, my friend and founder of the Curvy Sewing Collective, Jenny/Cashmerette launched her pattern company on Thursday! I've known about this pattern for a while--I sewed up my pattern tester version back in August and have been wearing it regularly since then. I wrote up my full post on it yesterday, so you can check that for details.

It's a great basic wrap dress and should work well on a lot of curvy women. (Just make sure that you pay attention to all aspects of the size chart, including finished garment measurements, when selecting your size.)

Cashmerette - Appleton dress

HotPatterns 1196: Metropolitan Urban Gypsy Blouses

The first of two new HotPatterns is an off-the-shoulder pullover blouse with an optional built-in shelf bra. It's a very pretty blouse in the line drawing, but the bra unfriendliness here makes this a no-go for me.  (Trudy has suggested to others to tuck in the straps from their bras and use the shelf bra as light support to keep the bra in place. I'm not sure that would work on my huge rack.)

HotPatterns - Urban Gypsy Blouse

HotPatterns 1197: Classix Nouveau Skinny Bootcut Jeans


Already ordered this one. I am thrilled beyond words to see that flared and bootcut jean styles are coming back into style again finally.

HotPatterns - Skinny Bootcut Jean
 StyleArc: Vivienne Designer Frock

StyleArc's designer October release is up, and it's a shift dress with a twist: it has no side seams. StyleArc posted a photo of one of their samples for this dress, and as is usually the case with their "designer" patterns, the made up sample looks much nicer than the line drawing.  I still don't see this dress working on my figure (lack of bust shaping and all) but I really like the design of it for someone who can wear it--I bet this would look great on someone with a pear shape.

StyleArc - Vivienne designer frock
Tilly and the Buttons: Orla blouse

I feel weird including Tilly's patterns in these roundups because I'm so not her target market. To me, this looks like a top version of her Francoise pattern, but with only one set of darts and different collar variations. Maybe I'm missing something?

Tilly and the Buttons - Orla top
True Bias - Roscoe Blouse and Dress

When Kelli released her Roscoe peasant blouse pattern earlier this week, a small portion of the online sewing community almost seemed like their eyes were offended at the unoriginality of releasing a peasant blouse pattern. I don't really have a problem with it--Kelli's aesthetic tends to very much reflect current RTW trends, and blousey peasant blouses like this one are all over RTW right now.

True Bias - Roscoe blouse
Granted, I did raise my eyebrow a touch at how closely the True Bias blouse resembles the HotPatterns peasant blouse that they released about a year and a half ago. If you'll recall, I made the HP version a few months ago, and it's been in regular rotation in my wardrobe since then.  You do get more options with the True Bias version, though.

I have many more issues with the repetition of, say, Tilly's patterns than I do with True Bias offering a take on a current RTW trend. It's not like this new offering is yet another darted A-line shift dress.


Final Thoughts

I've been looking for a jeans pattern like the HP one, so that was a no-brainer to me. I almost succumbed to ordering a similar RTW pair online and thankfully talked myself out of it because the chances of them fitting decently would be so small.

Jenny's new dress is a nice basic with welcome drafting. I'm really happy to see how positive the online reception has been for her pattern launch. I'm aware of a few of the other patterns that she has in the works, and I will say that there's a nice amount of diversity there, in terms of basics and patterns with more of an original design.

 So...what are your thoughts on this week's pattern releases? ;)


  1. I really love Cashmerette's first release and I'm even considering buying it, because her sizing matches my pregnancy measurements perfectly! Hooray for no more FBA's! Tilly's new pattern is a whole new level of twee and the model is too Stepford Wives for me. I bought the Roscoe as soon as it was released because it reminded me of my aunt's '70's dresses (which I used to dress up in as a child) and I think it'll work well with my current pregnant state.

    1. I probably would have been all over the Roscoe if I didn't already have (and hadn't already made up) the HP version. Not every garment we own has to be form-fitting and try to make us look 10 lbs thinner. Sometimes you just want something that's pretty and comfortable and will work with fluctuating weight/body state. ;)

    2. The Roscoe REALLY reminded me of HP's No Sweat Easy Sew Poetry in Motion blouses. The raglan sleeve, the encased tie at the neck, the flounce option. See it here:

      Is it just me?

  2. That HP Jeans pattern is amazing. I've been really wanting a pair of dark trouser jeans, but was struggling to find a pattern that matched the style that I had in mind. This is pretty much exactly what I was envisioning. Nothing else released this week catches my fancy, but those jeans are awesome!

    1. I like that they're a bit higher-waisted, too. I'm looking forward to making them up.

  3. There's something about the Style Arc dress that I like, but I'm trying to get my head around whether it would do anything for my Cello body type.
    The HP Jeans pattern looks great but as I rarely have occasion to wear heels, I'll pass.

    1. That dress reminds me of half of grandmother's house dresses in the 1970s. I think for a Cello (my basic shape), the key would be the right topper over that dress. Maybe the newer Muse raglan cardigan or HP's recent Chimera jacket with a contrast lapel?

    2. I know that the HP jeans pattern recommends heels, but I never wear heels. If I made these, I would wear them with ballet flats, boots, or colorful sneakers. The only change would be that I'd have to hem them a little higher so they don't drag.

  4. I love the hp pants which I would have not found but for your post. I think it's important to include all new patterns since the body types and preferences of your reader base is likely diverse. I am a petite flat chested square but I enjoy these compilations and discover inspiration.

    1. I try to include as many as I can, but I am also pretty open about the fact that my opinions about the new releases also relate to my own body type.

  5. Burda had a very nice version of "Le Smoking" in this month's magazine and matching trousers. I was very impressed as these pattens are quite wearable. I love the HP bootleg jeans pattern. Thanks for the round-up. I would have missed these too. Xx

  6. Burda has now served up that bootcut pant in at least 3 issues since it first appeared in July....

    1. Right? I actually bought the jeans version (with the seaming on the legs) back when it appeared, but to keep seeing them (including two issues in a row) is a bit repetitive. At least, they're real trousers as opposed to the cigarette print with the side zipper that they were printing over and over for a while.

    2. Yup. I appreciate that at least with this iteration, they've tried to make some little differences (this one doesn't look like it has the elastic back and the pockets are different), but those changes are too slight to say "New Pattern!". Did you ever see the sketch in Kids in the Hall with these director types, walking around striking all these different set pieces? They eventually decide they are the boring part and say "we bore we." It seems some of us in the SBC can say "Burda bore we."

      Oh, my. Do I miss Kids in the Hall... sigh...

  7. Tucked bra straps + built in shelf bra + G cup = MAJOR side eye. That is utter nonsense. =/

    There are so many of the same things being released by everybody that nothing seems original anymore.

    1. To be fair, Happily Caffeinated did say "to others" so without knowing their bust sizes, this could be suitable advise. At my size, I think that suggestion would be workable for me with my strapless bra. That top is VERY trendy right now, and if I wanted to wear it, this top is the best option I've seen for someone with my shape and size.

      Beyond that, yeah. There's very little truly new in fashion anymore. But thousands of years wearing clothes has kinda limited what's new and unique anymore, especially if one has an eye to what is practical or day-to-day appropriate. Hence why we see so many peasant tops of various ilks and stripes.

    2. Yeah, I can't remember who Trudy told that to (it happened on the Facebook group), but she'd said that she'd tried it and it worked fine, but she's a D-cup. It's not something that I would try.

    3. And to be fair again, I did mention a G cup. =P At my size, I wouldn't try it either because I know it would not work.

  8. Well, you KNOW which my fav pattern is this week! ;) But can I say, one up side to the Tilly pattern is that maybe she'll do a tute on grading sizes and doing and FBA with a french dart, which is something I've never been able to figure out! Come on Tilly, break it down for me!

  9. The difference between Tilly's Orlo and Francoise is that the Orla has set-in sleeves, fancy collar, and a curved French dart, while Francoise has raglan sleeves, plain collar, and darts at the bust and waist.
    Tilly's patterns seem to be made for beginning sewists. For beginners I can easily seen how I'd need two different patterns to help me sew the advanced beginner level Orlo after making the Francoise first.